zelin0802 / September 6, 2022

U-BOAT SOMMERSO BRONZE, a modern take on the past

The Sommerso Bronze is the epitome of a diver’s watch, bringing a touch of the romance of the past to the field with its artful blend of bronze, handmade leather and a Swiss movement.

The kings of fashion dine in Italy, so it’s no surprise that there are representatives of them who jump out of the mean temperance even in watches. U-Boat is an Italian brand guided by the vision of Italo Fontana. Located in Renaissance Florence, they have been successfully combining their creativity with the proven Swiss clock mechanism for many years. Their specialty is diving watches, and we chose the Sommerso Bronze model from their large collection. The watch is inspired by old documents used to make pilot watches commissioned by the Italian Navy during World War II and owned by Italo Fontana’s grandfather, Ilva.

The unique natural bronze tone combined with the technical specifications of professional diving is the standout feature of this diver’s watch with an iconic, bold and timeless design. The Sommerso Bronze has a rotating bezel and an additional 24-hour subdial. Comes with a handmade leather strap with a bronze clasp with a special anti-corrosion treatment. The case diameter is the standard large diameter, in this case 46mm, with the crown at 9 o’clock on the left. This type of accommodation will make life easier for lefties, but righties won’t get the crown stabbed in the hand. An additional screw-in protective cover comes with a small toggle switch. cheap replica watches

Bronze is an ancient alloy that, due to its malleability, was the first metal humans learned to manipulate. In ancient times, it was used to make jewelry, holy grails, and even sailing. Bronze is very resistant to water and corrosion, but it is harder than steel or iron, so it is often used for many details on ships. Over time, the untreated bronze color of the case will develop a unique sheen, taking on a blue or green hue due to exposure to the atmosphere.

The dial of the watch is black and the hour markers are beige, which complements the bronze color of the case. The bezel rotates unidirectionally and is engraved with the standard 60-minute scale of a diving watch. The crystal is sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating and the hands are coated with luminescent material. Inspired by diving pioneers and their bronze gear, Italo Fontana pays homage to them with a case design. It is made of bronze with an antique anti-corrosion treatment.

The watch is equipped with a Swiss automatic mechanism with a 44-hour power reserve and functions including hours, minutes, seconds, date and a 24-hour counter. Water-resistant to 300 m, in addition to the unique case, the watch is adorned with a handmade leather strap, a detail we have not encountered in any other watch. Dicta stands for U-Boat in Croatia.

U-Boat Sommerso Bronze
Mechanism: Swiss Automatic – 26 rubies – 44 hour power reserve – Vibration 28’800 A/h, (4 Hz)
Case: Bronze – Diameter 46 mm – Sapphire crystal – Left screw-down crown – Screw-down cover – Water-resistant to 300 m (30 bar) Dial: Black – Luminous beige hands – Date at 9 o’clock – Warp Super Hour-marker strap with luminous coating: leather reference. 8554/Z – Handcrafted – Bracelet Width 23.00mm – Classic Bronze Buckle Reference. 8590
Complications: hours-minutes-seconds-date-24-hour subdial-unidirectional rotating bezel

zelin0802 / August 1, 2022

Top 5 Subdials Watches For Men To Consider

Sometimes one of the most challenging things about collecting a watch is finding a watch that fits your wrist. While some people have big wrists that can handle watches of all sizes, the same cannot be said for everyone. Of course, not all of us have wrists like Arnold Schwarzenegger’s or Sylvester Stallone’s, who can easily strap on any Panerai of their choice and call it a day. So some of us need to be more careful about the watches we pick and how big their cases and dials are. So we wanted to explore 5 of the best watches men can choose from that are on the small side while offering everything a luxury watch should.

rolex explorer 36mm
To start our list is probably one of the most iconic field watches on the market, the Rolex Explorer. Originally a watch made for traversing mountains, the Explorer was built with a 36mm case from the start, based on its legibility requirements as a sports watch. In the early 1950s it was quite large at 36mm in diameter, but it didn’t get bigger until the 39mm ref. The 214670 was introduced in 2010 and was subsequently discontinued and replaced by the Explorer ref in 2021. 124670, which reintroduces the 36mm case to the Explorer family. Explorer ref. The 124670 is undoubtedly one of the best men’s subdials watches, and its integrity as a true luxury sports watch is impeccable.

Rolex Datejust 36mm
Another iconic timepiece for men to consider if they don’t want to wear a big watch is the Rolex Datejust in its original 36mm configuration. Originally introduced as a 36mm timepiece in 1945, it was also quite large at the time, so it remained unchanged until 2009. While the larger 41mm variant was introduced in 2009 as the Datejust II, the 36mm variant has never been discontinued and is therefore the most iconic and time-honored silhouette in watchmaking. Perfectly balanced after decades of production, the 36mm Rolex Datejust is one of the best watches on the market if they want a watch that is both iconic and equipped with the best Rolex has to offer Men, they can consider. Sporty when you need it, always classy and suitable for any occasion, the log can go anywhere and do anything.

Rolex Day-Date 36mm
Much like the Rolex Datejust 36mm, the Rolex Day-Date is another timepiece that entered production as a 36mm model and has been relatively unchanged since then. While 40mm and 41mm variants have come and gone, the 36mm variant is the most classic, traditional and steadfast, produced from Day-Date’s first reference, ref. 6510. Perfectly sized as the Datejust, the Day-Date is Rolex’s flagship timepiece, taking the Datejust’s classic aesthetic to make it more formal and unique. The Explorer takes the Datejust’s design and makes it sportier, while the Day-Date does the opposite, creating a watch fit for presidents, royalty and diplomats.

Tudor Black Bay 36mm
Leaving Rolex but staying in the family, we have one of the most popular timepieces on the market today, the Tudor Black Bay. Launched in 2012, Black Bay marked the re-emergence of Tudor in the diving watch world. Built to last, the Black Bay is a rugged and functional diver’s watch that blends stainless steel construction with a refined aesthetic in perfect harmony, flying under the radar or paired with a strap for a unique look Temperament and personality. Available in a variety of sizes, the 36mm model is an excellent choice for anyone looking to get away from the bulky timepieces we’ve seen time and time again.

Cartier Tank
From the Rolex Group, we explore Cartier, the famous French jeweler and watchmaker. While almost all of Cartier’s timepieces prefer smaller dial and case designs than most other watchmakers, almost all of them can be The Cartier Tank is the perfect watch for anyone who wants to wear a smaller dial. Available in a variety of sizes from less than 22mm wide to over 31mm wide, the tanks have everything. Iconic due to its unique rectangular profile, rich history and stunning looks, Tank could be perfect for the gentleman who wants a luxury watch that looks great in a smaller configuration timepiece. Thanks to its rectangular profile, the Tank looks incredible as a smaller watch and can easily be worn no matter the size of its owner’s wrist.

zelin0802 / May 16, 2022

Urwerk UR-220 Red Gold

Aside from the heavily modified base movement in-house, the Urwerk’s otherworldly mechanism, which seems to tell the time only by chance, has more in common with something out of a sci-fi movie than a traditional watch. The essential feature of its watch is the Roaming Hours complication, originally invented in the 17th century for the clocks of the Vatican City. Although Audemars Piguet reinterpreted it as a wrist star wheel in the early 1990s, it was cheap Urwerk who reinvented an almost celebratory structure for a 21st-century complication, displaying hourly satellites in all their three-dimensional brilliance. By combining a satellite cube display with a three-dimensional retrograde minute indicator, the UR-210 and 220 series are the pinnacle of the brand’s concept.

After three versions in just two years, Urwerk will be bringing the curtain down on the UR-220. With a slimmer and sleeker case thanks to a built-in hand-wound movement, this model debuts in 2020 as the successor to the popular UR-210. It was initially launched in carbon fiber, followed by an all-black titanium and steel version, and then a second carbon fiber version with illuminated satellite cubes.

This makes the fourth and final UR-220 the only solid red gold iteration. Due to their size and style, Urwerk timepieces tend to benefit from the use of lighter, more modern materials such as carbon or titanium. But a warm precious metal with a distinct concentric brushed finish does give it an irresistible contrast. It is further paired with a white rubber strap that gives it an unparalleled presence while ensuring comfort on the wrist.

Notably, compared to all other red gold watches of the brand, the bridges of the hour satellite watch are gold-plated to match the case of the UR-220, visually highlighting the movement of the 3D proprietary dial system. Define Urwerk.

The central carousel consists of three cubes with an hour number on each side. Over time, the cube crosses the dial, inserting a huge skeletonized retrograde minute hand to display the current hour. At the top of the hour, the minute hand jumps back to zero and wraps around the next hour cube. This is achieved through the use of a ruby ​​bearing system to ensure stability, a double star cam below that triggers a spring attached to the satellite frame, and a large vertical cylindrical spring to generate enough tension to power the flyback. The minute hand is skeletonised and made of aluminium to minimise inertia and balanced by a bronze weight visible on the centre shaft.

Notably, in the UR-220, the 48-hour power reserve is displayed on two gauges at 1 o’clock and 11 o’clock. When the fake luxury watches starts running, the indicator at 11 o’clock begins to reverse, and once zero is reached, the second indicator takes over.

There’s also a digital service indicator on the back, activated by removing the guard pin, which activates a counter that displays the number of months the watch has run on two scroll wheels, allowing owners to keep track of the brand’s recommended 39-month service interval.

The base movement is still the highly modified Zenith Elite, which has gotten rid of the self-winding mechanism. As a result, the watch is noticeably slimmer, at 14.8mm thick, compared to 17.8mm for the UR-210.

Technical Specifications
Urwerk UR-220 Red Gold

Movement: Manual winding movement UR-7.20; 4 Hz (28,800); 48 hours of power
Storage 3D retrograde minute hand; dual power reserve indicator; oil change indicator on the two rollers on the back shows the cumulative running time of the movement (in months)
Case: 43.8mm x 53.6mm x 14.8mm; 4N red gold; water resistant to 30m
Strap: White rubber with Velcro fastening

zelin0802 / May 13, 2022

LMX: A decade of legacy

In the MB&F replica world, X has a special meaning and is based on the Roman numeral 10. It marks the 10th anniversary, just like the HM3 FrogX (2020) marked the decade of the Totem HM3 or HMX (2015), which is titled MB&F’s 10th anniversary. But X isn’t just an archaic replacement for the Arabic numeral 10. In algebra, X is the unsolved variable; in cartography, X is the desired destination. X stands for indescribable, inexplicable, inexplicable; it symbolizes everything we don’t know yet.

Presenting the LMX, celebrating 10 years of legacy machines

Back in October 2011, MB&F had just launched Legacy Machine N°1, the first new collection to launch alongside the existing Horological Machines; a creative laboratory, two ways of timing. The LMX returns to its earliest touches with the Legacy Machine collection, with the same expression, including a central flying balance wheel and two dials, although everything else is different.

Two independent time zones on the inclined dial

Anyone familiar with MB&F’s first Legacy Machine will know instinctively how the LMX works. Two stretched white lacquered dials, each with its own hour and minute display. The dial on the right is set by a crown at 2 o’clock, engraved with the MB&F Tomahawk, which also winds the movement. A globe is engraved on the crown at 10 o’clock to confirm the potential use of a second time zone for setting the time on the left dial. Unlike the first-generation Legacy Machine, however, both dials are tilted at an angle—a more complicated feature on the latest Legacy Machines, requiring the help of bevel gears to transfer energy from the horizontal to the vertical.

Apparent mechanics under the sapphire crystal dome

While the first few Legacy Machines took a selective approach to the presentation between the dial and the sapphire crystal top, later models, such as the LM Perpetual, LM FlyingT and LM Thunderdome, were more open and showy about their mechanical capabilities. The LMX follows the latter approach, showcasing functional elements such as the tomahawk escapement bridge and gear train components. Three large gears stand out: next to each winding crown, two actuate when the time is set on the corresponding time display, while the gear at 6 o’clock is the ordinary seconds wheel.

Of particular note is the new bespoke balance wheel, a behemoth 13.4mm with an inertia block that marks a departure from more traditional threaded balance wheels and gives watchmakers greater precision to adjust the LMX Core. Other improvements include the polished arms of the straight bridge exposed on the dial, finished by hand to impart a curved or bercé profile on its upper surface.

Hemispherical 7-day power reserve indicator

As another tribute to Legacy Machine No 1’s world-first vertical power reserve indicator, the LMX builds on this MB&F history with an all-new 3D display showing the engine’s impressive 7 days (168 hours) Power Reserve. In this improved display, it is possible to choose between two countdown power reserve modes. Two markers are located on opposite sides of the hemisphere; one is framed by arched scales numbered 1 to 7, and the other has scales showing the days of the week.

This complex and entirely new component interaction is given additional complexity through the rotation of the entire power reserve display itself. This allows the wearer to choose the power reserve display mode they prefer: even when continuing to wind the Tomahawk crown after the power reserve is fully replenished, the wearer can adjust the direction indicated so that the date is displayed – when the LMX is worn on the wrist , the day of the week or the numerical scale is more obvious. wholesale replica watches

Symmetrical kinematic structure

Like a perfectly balanced X, the engine of the LMX is highly symmetrical – not only on the dial side, but as seen from the sapphire caseback, the three barrels are evenly distributed in the center, and the sunburst pattern in the Côtes de Genève finish is even more pronounced. Prominence. It’s a treat for those who can read the language of watch movements, discerning the expert intent and refined purpose behind the placement of each component.

The X in LMX is not just a symmetric symbol, or another way of representing the number 10. LMX is the crossroads where the first and second decades of the Legacy Machine series meet. cheap replica watch

LMX has produced two limited releases:

– 18K red gold, bridges and bridges with black NAC treatment;

– Grade 5 titanium alloy with green CVD treatment of plates and bridges.

For 2022, the new “Steel & Brass” limited edition 316L stainless steel matte finish.