zelin0802 / May 8, 2024

Anchor of a New Era: Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture Limited Edition

The Marine Chronometer Manufacture Limited Edition is a watershed release for Le Locle, Switzerland-based Ulysse Nardin. As the vessel for the company’s first in-house movement, the watch is both a milestone and a showpiece. While the model represents a subtle refinement of the Marine collection’s much-admired aesthetic, the movement inside is a radical break from UN’s past practice of modifying Swatch Group ETA client movements.

Sometimes a name says it all: Marine Chronometer Manufacturer. The UN-118 movement, which debuted in this model in 2012, represented UN’s attempt to avoid the effects of future ETA supply constraints and blurred the company’s historically sharp lines between haute horlogerie and volume models. While past UN product lines drew a sharp distinction between mechanical marvels like the Trilogy of Time and cornerstone products like the Marine, the new in-house UN-118 marked the dawn of a more comprehensive UN product catalog. With Marine Chronometer Manufacturer, buyers can gain access to flagship technology at an affordable price.

The Chronometer Manufacture movement is a stunning showcase for material technology. Five years ago, silicon-based balance springs and diamond-based escapement components were the domain of concept watches with six-figure price tags. For many brands, the technology remains out of reach, but for UN, which first introduced silicon escapement technology in the landmark 2001 “Freak,” alternative materials have become a core competency.

The UN-118 Manufacture movement starts with the iconic silicon balance spring. It’s non-magnetic, shock-resistant, and virtually unaffected by temperature fluctuations. As the anchor (pun intended) of a marine chronometer’s engine, the silicon balance spring provides the optimal foundation for a watch that meets and exceeds COSC chronometer standards. But we’ve seen this technology before at UN; the UN-118 adds a proprietary technology called DIAMonSIL. The silicon escapement components are coated with a synthetic diamond deposit to enhance their resistance to wear, frictional losses, and impact damage. replica watches uk

The material is so resilient that the UN-118’s escapement assembly can operate without lubricants, a huge advantage that extends service intervals and reduces ownership costs. UN’s technological advantage is unique. Currently, Ulysse Nardin is one of only four watchmakers (Swatch, Rolex and Patek Philippe are the other three) to have proprietary silicon balance spring technology; only UN has the rights to DIAmonSIL. With no less than three major components – the escape wheel, the pallet lever and the balance spring – made from the special material, the Marine Chronometer Manufacture is bringing mainstream mechanical watchmaking into the 21st century. And the benefits are real; in an age of powerful speakers, computer components and static magnets in almost every office and home environment, the UN-118 laughs at the magnetic menace that has plagued watchmakers since AL Breguet learned to tell time…

Beyond its revolutionary escapement, the UN-118 movement is a study in elegance, thoughtfulness and the traditional Swiss “Watch Valley” finishing tradition. Unique to the Manufacture for this limited edition UN-118 marine chronometer, the rose gold winding rotor is engraved with the UN anchor icon and the PVD-engraved DIAMonSIL emblem. The bridges are embellished with circular Côtes de Genève; the chamfers on the plates and levers reflect the company’s determination to make a strong first impression with this historic movement. While dark PGM PVD softens the light on the main components, all wheels are textured and given a protective coating of shiny rhodium for a striking contrast. Powerful; UN’s combination of matte gunmetal bridges, dazzling white rhodium, rose gold and chemically blued screws is exactly the kind of beauty that metals can offer.

The technical details of the new movement are commensurate with its status as the standard-bearer of replica Ulysse Nardin’s savoir-faire. The exceptional power reserve of 60 hours exceeds the industry standard of 42-48 hours, and the circular power reserve indicator at 12 on the dial shows the release of the mainspring’s energy. UN has always been an industry leader in user-friendly setting systems, and here borrows elements from the perpetual calendar, providing marine chronometer manufacturers with a quick date setting that can be adjusted forwards and backwards without damaging the movement. Automatic winding via a bidirectional rotor provides a continuous flow of power to the 28,800 v/h escapement. Composed of 248 parts, the movement meets COSC Observatory standards and is entitled to bear the words “Certified Chronometer” on its dial.

And it’s impossible to ignore that dial. Ulysse Nardin is one of only a handful of watchmakers in the world to perform in-house enamel dial production. Almost as uncommon as silicon balance spring technology, the art of enamelling involves exposing a base metal calan coated with enamel paint to a 1,500-degree furnace fire multiple times. At any point in the process, the enamel surface can warp, crack, scorch or explode, and even the best enamelling experts must endure a very high scrap rate. In short, it’s an old-world artisan delicacy that has no place in the modern world of mass production. Fortunately, like the mechanical watch itself, the craft of enamelling endures for the emotion it inspires and the enduring beauty of the final product. While metal, lacquered and synthetic dials will age, fade, corrode and deform, a finished enamel dial will retain its porcelain luster indefinitely.

The depth, lustre and vibrant colours of the Marine Chronometer Manufacture’s enamel dials are mesmerising. They are arresting. The black Roman numeral hour markers combined with the “railway” minute track are reminiscent of vintage Ulysse Nardin marine chronometers that inspired this collection. Modified cathedral hands with deposited luminous material and black shafts further distinguish this limited-production model from the mass-produced Marine models. The power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, the small seconds “sector track” subdial at 6 o’clock and the date window at the bottom of the subdial give the whole construction a striking bilateral and vertical symmetry. Small touches of crimson burst from the otherwise two-tone enamel, bringing the whole watch to life.

While the dial is the undisputed aesthetic highlight of this watch, the case, crown and strap system reflect the overall effort that fake Ulysse Nardin puts into each watch. The case is an evolution of the unique and acclaimed first generation marine chronometers. The UN continues to feature lateral stamping and a fixed bezel with a narrow cross-section. Despite the 45mm case diameter, the combination of a large dial and minimal bezel width creates the impression of a very imposing timepiece; it easily matches visually with serious heavy metal watches such as the Hublot Big Bang King Power and the 44mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore. As a true marine instrument, the Marine Chronometer Manufacture has a water resistance rating of 100 meters (330 feet).

Attention to detail abounds. A large rectangular shoulder protects the screw-down crown and extends the visual span of the case. The crown itself is large, and the UN design team thoughtfully thought that it should be coated with soft rubber to allow for easy use when wearing gloves or working with wet hands. The lugs are solid, full-width units that add extra presence to this majestic timepiece. The extra care taken by the designers is evident in the screw-on lug interface of the strap. While a spring bar is more convenient, the set screw increases the security of the watch in adverse conditions, and the large flat-head screws complement the vintage design philosophy of the marine chronometer.

This Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer is presented on a dark brown alligator strap that pairs perfectly with the rose gold case, while the watch is also compatible with a range of rubber, leather and metal bracelets produced by Ulysse Nardin. The exceptional double deployment clasp with friction fold retention ensures ease of use. While many competitors continue to offer single folding clasps that can catch wrist hairs and complicate wearing on smaller wrists, UN’s two click closure extension system makes putting this watch on and off a ‘do-done’. On the wrist, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Chronometer Manufacture gives the physical impression of a smaller timepiece while retaining the presence of a larger one. The key to this ergonomic trick is the short, arched lugs that keep the case in a central position on the flat surface of the forearm.

As one of the special editions of the UN-118 movement launched in the Marine collection, this watch is a unique piece with a lasting connection to the history of watchmaking in general and Ulysse Nardin in particular. Connoisseurs of the brand and technology enthusiasts will find this marine chronometer not only a piece of watchmaking history, but also a model of contemporary men’s style. Whether at home, in the office or at sea, the marine chronometer embodies the most advanced technology and the art of traditional fine watchmaking.

zelin0802 / May 4, 2023

Audemars Piguet

pop culture icons who marked their era

Celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, the Royal Oak Offshore was the catalyst for a new trend in big, cool sports watches

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore When it came out in 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore was oversized, sporty, durable yet refined, and at the time not fully understood by people. Watch enthusiasts thought it was a monster, calling it “The Beast”. Even the famous designer of the Royal Oak, Gérald Genta, called it the “Walrus”. But it was the 1990s, an era of big and bold, and the model found its tribe among a new generation of young consumers who loved a standout aesthetic.

Pop Culture
For those too young to remember the 1990s, it was an explosive time in pop culture. As advances in digital recording equipment allowed artists to create music in entirely new ways, the music world witnessed a period of creative and inspiring new sounds, including new genres such as alternative music, ska punk, rap and hip-hop. Hip-hop style also found its way into fashion through oversized pants, hoodies, paramilitary boots, and snap caps. Jurassic Park was the most popular movie of 1993, and dinosaur toys are on every kid’s gift list. Auto sales have surged as pickup trucks became the best-selling vehicle in the United States. Essentially, big is cool!

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore
Dierk Wettengel, Audemars Piguet’s German agent, started the trend by asking the manufacturer for a new trend-setting model for the offshore regattas of the 1990s. Designer Emmanuel Gueit set out on a mission to reinvent the Royal Oak, increasing the case size from 39mm to 42mm, adding thick gaskets, a crown trimmed with colored rubber, and round links and studs.

wrong start
The watch was supposed to be released on the occasion of the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak, but its oversized size was not internally approved and its release was postponed until the following year. However, waiting did not temper the response. “The scandal it caused when it was released was matched by its excess,” explains Raphaël Ballestra, Heritage and Archives Manager at Audemars Piguet. “But if the watchmaking world is outraged, young people will embrace it. Despite a rocky start, Offshore was a huge success and was very popular in the 2000s”.

yacht racing
From the sponsorship of motor sailing events such as the World Offshore Sailing Championships and the Audemars Piguet Cup, to the support of sailing teams such as the Alinghi America’s Cup and the Ladycat All-Women’s Sailing Team, Royal Oak Offshore has been intimate with yacht competitions for many years. Linked together, it reinforces its sporty character.

celebrity ambassador
Royal Oak Offshore is also credited with starting the industry-wide celebrity association trend, starting with famous movie stars, bodybuilders and future California Governor Arnold Schwarzenegger. A fan of Audemars Piguet, Schwarzenegger visited the Manufacture in Le Brassus in 1997. Two years later, he collaborated with the brand on a limited-edition collection titled Royal Oak Offshore Model Doomsday to celebrate his film of the same name. Over the next few years, the model sparked many productions with the actor limited edition. replica watches online

Since then, many celebrities in sports and entertainment have been linked to Offshore, including musician Jay-Z, basketball stars LeBron James and Shaquille O’Neal, and tennis champion Serena Williams.

30th anniversary celebration
This year, to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the series, the Manufacture launched three new Offshore models – a 43mm Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Chronograph in black ceramic and 18-carat gold, a 42mm Royal Oak Offshore The Onshore Automatic Chronograph in black ceramic with a small Tapisserie dial, and the all-black ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Flying Tourbillon Chronograph with green accents.

Thirty years is a long time for a timepiece to stay cool, but the Royal Oak Offshore hasn’t looked back since it took off, constantly evolving new movements, materials, designs and finishes. With these new releases, its future seems to have more sails. buy luxury replica watches

zelin0802 / April 15, 2023

The success of the Zenith Chronomaster Sport

Zenith never fails to disappoint us with its updated models in each new release. In 2021, Zenith launched the avant-garde Zenith Chronomaster Sport watch, and it has achieved great success without any surprises. This award-winning Zenith watch reproduces the brand’s iconic blue, gray and anthracite overlapping subdials from the original A386 El Primero chronograph from 1969. It reminds us of the old golden age with state-of-the-art watchmaking technology.

Zenith Chronomaster The Zenith Chronomaster watch has gained fame among watch enthusiasts and professional experts, once again setting a new golden benchmark for luxury automatic chronograph watches.

The Birth of the Zenith El Primero Movement
Whenever we talk about the famous Swiss watchmaker Zenith, we always think of the brand’s iconic chronograph watches. The brand has been constantly breaking through the boundaries of mechanical timing accuracy.

With its famous Zenith El Primero movement, Zenith has been at the forefront of precision timekeeping in the watch industry for decades. To this day, the Le Locle-based watchmaker still holds the world record for the Chronometer Prize. The first El Primero movement came out in 1969, a true milestone in the brand’s history.

Zenith El Primero is the world’s first integrated chronograph movement with high frequency and high performance. It operates at an exceptionally high frequency of 36,600 vibrations per hour (5 Hz), and the integrated chronograph inside records elapsed time to 1/10th of a second.

The revolutionary movement, which was born in the difficult period of the traditional watchmaking industry, successfully helped the brand survive the severe quartz crisis and set off a new wave for the watch industry. Since its launch, El Primero has become a key force in the success of the Swiss watch brand.

At present, most of the watches in the Zenith watch family use this powerful movement, and are equipped with the brand’s iconic sub-dial details. Incorporating high-quality components and stylish designs, Zenith watches are one of the best options to catch the eye for any occasion.

The launch of the Zenith Chronomaster sports discount cheap watch
Zenith already had a number of beautiful timepieces powered by the El Primero and in 1994 released a specific line of chronographs, the Zenith Chronomaster. It was created as a series of high-end mechanical chronographs, including the brand’s strength and mastery of complex functions.

The Chronomaster models are launched as faithful re-editions of the brand’s most iconic models from the 1960s and 1970s. They are available in a number of different styles and configurations, including the most popular skeleton and open heart options.

The Zenith El Primero Chronomaster showcases Zenith’s rich heritage and expertise in chronograph movements, always powered by its state-of-the-art movements. The latest Zenith Chronomaster Sports watches are no exception.

Released in 2021, the Chronomaster Sport is positioned as the pinnacle of the brand’s proficient sporty automatic chronograph. The Zenith Chronomaster Sport watch is equipped with the latest El Primero movement in increments of 1/10 second and the most advanced innovative technology. It has also won the “Chronograph Award” of the “Chronograph” Award at the 2021 Geneva cheap Watch Awards.

Zenith is popular in the Chronomaster Sport series and has launched several new models in 2022. In addition to the high-end two-color and all-gold models, its stainless steel model with a three-color ceramic bezel has attracted much attention in the global market.

Features of the Zenith Chronomaster Sport
Equipped with the latest generation El Primero movement, this Zenith sports chronograph is crafted in a sporty and contemporary style. It cleverly combines the most iconic design elements of Zenith watches, such as three-color sub-dials, with the latest watchmaking technology. This complexity may be why collectors fall for it.

extraordinary movement
In short, this famous 1/10 El Primero movement is more accurate than other conventional chronographs that tick every 60 seconds. Its long red-tipped center sweep can be recorded in 1/10th of a second increments instead of one second.

To be frank, the Chronomaster Sport is not the first 1/10th chronograph in the industry, while Zenith itself and even other brands such as TAG Heuer and Longines have already had it. It’s also not the first 1/10th El Primero, as there was already a limited edition El Primero Striking released a decade ago, only 1969 of which were released. Also, it’s not the brand’s most accurate chronograph, as there was already a 1/100th chronograph in the Defy 21 collection released in 2018.

So what makes the new Chronomaster Sport so impressive and so much discussed? Its brand-new El Primero 3600 movement is the latest 1/10 movement fully developed by Zenith. It is not a limited edition and is now available. With exquisite craftsmanship and the latest watchmaking technology, this watch equipped with El Primero is recognized as the brand’s. best swiss replica watches

The revival of the iconic sub-dial
In addition to the well-received movement, the integration of the retro replica small dial is also a highlight of this watch. The design of this new Zenith sports watch is influenced by the brand’s vintage models, including the Chronomaster Revival Manufacture Version and the Zenith Chronomaster A385 Revival. The 41mm Chronomaster Sport features the iconic El Primero subdial set: blue, anthracite and light grey, very similar to those of the vintage A386 model released in 1969.

Sophisticated case and bezel
The curves and facets of the 41mm case are further polished with attractive satin and mirror finishes, where shiny and matte parts flow seamlessly from lugs to bracelet links.

For the stainless steel standard version, the case is paired with a more scratch-resistant jet-black ceramic bezel. Its signature three-color sub-dial next to the look is more simple and balanced.

With the launch of the Chronomaster Sport collection, the brand showcased its most advanced and optimized El Primero movement and launched its fully equipped models. The Zenith Chronomaster Sport brings together all the best of the brand’s past and present. best fake watches