zelin0802 / November 4, 2024

Greubel Forsey Nano-Foudroyante EWT watch is here, a small watch with a big idea

Greubel Forsey’s latest watch combines a completely new type of foudroyante with GF’s first flying tourbillon, housed in a case that is classically styled and sized.

Greubel Forsey replica has been renowned for many reasons since the brand was founded in 2004, including the extremely meticulous hand-finishing of its movements, the delicate and almost microscopic construction of those movements, and perhaps most importantly the seemingly inexhaustible creativity that founders Stephen Forsey and Robert Greubel have brought to the creation of complications. The company has created many highly complicated watches, but is best known for its tourbillons, which over the years have included multi-axis, double and quadruple tourbillons, and high-speed tourbillons. In recent years, GF has also experimented with less complex but equally well-made watches in the Balancier collection, but lest it appear that GF is no longer in the supertourbillon business, they introduced the Tourbillon Cardan in 2023, which embeds a tilted tourbillon within a double-ring oscillating system. Today, GF announced the launch of its latest EWT, or “Experimental Watch Technology” invention, released in limited quantities – the Nano Foudroyante EWT – to celebrate the brand’s 20th anniversary since its founding in 2004.

The nomenclature of Greubel Forsey inventions is a little confusing; the company announced this as its 10th foundational invention, though it announced an earlier version of the Nano Foudroyante in 2017 as its third EWT invention, distinct from its other “foundational inventions” – the other two EWT inventions at the time were the Synthetic Diamond Binomial Escapement in 2009 and the Différentiel d’Egalité (Spherical Differential Constant Force Device, patented in 2006), the latter of which went into production watches in 2018; I don’t think the Diamond Binomial Escapement was actually ever produced. The original version of the Nano-Foudroyante was really more of a technology demonstrator, though, as you’d expect, it was pretty impressive.

The lightning-seconds hand (sometimes called the diablotine or “little devil”) rotates once per second, usually jumping in a different pattern corresponding to each unlocking of the escape wheel. Since the lightning-seconds hand is usually driven by a wheel mounted on the escape wheel axle, whatever gearing is used must be as light and low-inertia as possible so that the escapement can lock and unlock properly. (A more complex example of a lightning-seconds hand is the Centigraphe by FP Journe, which adds complexity by engaging and disengaging the lightning-seconds hand as the chronograph is turned on and off, incorporating a reset mechanism and a method of braking the lightning-seconds hand between jumps). Bugatti Chiron replica watches

The 2017 prototype introduced a new approach, using a tiny gear on the escape wheel axle that is actually much smaller in diameter than the escape wheel itself. This LIGA-made gear drives the crown wheel (also very small) on the tourbillon hand axle, and since this axle rotates at right angles to the plane of rotation of the go-wheel train, the actual tourbillon hand and dial are built into the watch’s caseband.

This time, however, GF has opted for something more complicated, but also more practical and creative.

If you are familiar with Greubel Forsey, the first thing you will notice and be surprised by is the size of the watch. Usually, GF watches are large, partly for practical reasons and partly for aesthetic reasons; for example, the Quadruple Tilted Tourbillon has many advantages, but it probably won’t prompt anyone to write or say “surprisingly wearable” (for example, the Quadruple Tourbillon GMT measures 46.5mm x 17,45mm, although in addition to the two double tourbillons, it also has a rotating miniature globe). On the other hand, the Nano Foudroyante measures only 37.9mm x 10.49mm in a white gold (case center) and tantalum (bezel, caseback) case, which is smaller than some fake Grand Seiko time and date watches.

The second thing you will notice are the two pushers at 2:00 and 3:00 on the side of the case. The watch is a column-wheel-controlled flyback chronograph with a central chronograph seconds hand and a 60-minute counter at 9:00. The running seconds hand is visible at 8:30 on the dial. So far, so good, and relatively conventional too, save for the slightly unusual sub-dial layout and the use of a mix of white gold and tantalum.

The main attraction, however, is the tourbillon, which is positioned slightly asymmetrically and visible through an aperture between 4:00 and 7:00. This is a first for GF in several ways. Arguably the first first is that this is a flying tourbillon, and despite GF having created so many tourbillon variations, it has never done a traditional flying tourbillon before (the closest thing is probably a gimbal, although technically the upper bridge is actually part of the innermost rotating ring). But what really catches your eye is the foudroyante dial that sits on top of the tourbillon.

The basics are the same as the non-tourbillon 2017 version, but obviously the earlier model did not have the foudroyante hand and dial on the tourbillon itself. Since the escape wheel is on the tourbillon cage (as all tourbillons are), in principle it’s just a matter of figuring out how to move the foudroyante hand off the escape wheel, but – and this is a big but – there’s little room for the drive gears unless you can scale them down small enough to make the whole thing possible. Tourbillons with foudroyante have been made before, but never on the tourbillon itself. The foudroyante dial is a satellite – that is, it’s geared so that its vertical axis never changes; the 6 is always at the top of the dial, no matter where the one-minute flying tourbillon is in its orbit. Those interested in balance will notice that the weights on the tourbillon cage are quite asymmetrical, due to the foudroyante mechanism; GF compensates for this with a platinum counterweight (hidden on the bottom of the cage). luxury cheap Watches

The actual nano-drive system is in a housing beneath the tourbillon dial – I presume it’s directly above the escape wheel – while the satellite gears needed to keep the system’s vertical axis upright appear to be located below the “GF” on the central axis of the tourbillon itself. The energy required to drive the tourbillon is very small – and I quote GF: “Compared to a conventional tourbillon that consumes 30μJ (microjoules) per jump, the nanotourbillon consumes only 16nJ (nanojoules) per jump, reducing energy consumption by a factor of 1,800. As a result, the device is 90% smaller.” (A joule is an SI unit roughly equivalent to the energy required to lift a medium-sized tomato one meter off the ground. If you’re a Newton fan, use an apple). The 2017 system consumed a bit less energy – GF told us at the time that it consumed 5 nanojoules per jump – but this is still in the order of 16nJ, and is very reasonable given the adaptability of the drive system to the tourbillon.

If you want to quibble about terminology, “nanotechnology” usually refers to mechanisms on a scale of 1 to 100 nanometers (billionths of a meter), that is, the size of individual atoms and molecules, but I think we can forgive GF a little exaggeration on this point. By comparison, 160 nanojoules is the energy of a flying mosquito. It’s fascinating watchmaking, and it’s fascinating engineering.

Of course, there’s more to the story than nanojoule engineering. First, if you’re interested in this watch (and I hope you are by now) and in GF in general, you’d hope that they didn’t give up anything in terms of movement finishing, and that seems to be the case.

The movement is extremely compact; just 31mm in diameter (if that number makes your eyes light up, there’s a reason, it’s the smallest movement GF has ever made). The movement has a uniform upper bridge (GF hasn’t provided a caliber name yet, but there’s absolutely no reason to think you wouldn’t recognize this movement immediately), and as far as I can tell, there’s not a single internal corner that isn’t as sharp as a sashimi knife, which is nice. GF has a habit of engraving text on the dials and movements of some of its watches that expresses its design philosophy, and here we see a bit of that, but in keeping with GF’s 37mm high quality cheap watches, the scale is modest and understated, only on the central chronograph seconds wheel.

If you want to know how much effort any brand or watchmaker puts into perfecting its movement, two good places to look are the stabilizing pins and screws; the stabilizing pins visible on the movement are domed and black/mirror polished; the screws have beveled slots and heads, and every visible surface (including the slot, the slot bevel, and the bottom of the slot itself) is black polished. And of course, the beveled countersunk holes.

Greubel Forsey is one of three contemporary independent watch brands that I wish I had collected from the beginning – the other two are MING and MB&F, and all three have some personal reasons (I say that, but when it comes to watches, I guess all reasons are personal). One of the most memorable moments I’ve had as a journalist and collector was sitting next to Stephen Forsey at a dinner in New York in the early 2000s, just as the brand was launching in the US, and I listened to him speak for an hour about the theory and practice of the tourbillon and the principles of the multi-axis tourbillon, and I remember at the end, when I asked him if all these complications really offered any real chronometric advantage, he said: “It’s always a struggle to gain more than you lose.” It’s great to see that GF is still pushing the boundaries of mechanical timepieces, and surprisingly, they’re doing so in a 37.9mm watch; putting the Nano Foudroyante in a large case would defeat the purpose of the whole exercise.

I hope to see it one day – limited to 11 pieces, price on request. I don’t quite like the odds, but as a decades-long watch enthusiast, I don’t ask why, but why not? I’m glad it exists.

Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante EWT: Case, 37.9mm x 10.49mm, white gold case, tantalum bezel and caseback; water-resistant to 30m. Rhodium-plated gold dial, engraved and black lacquered hour-markers and tourbillon minute ring opening; gold small seconds and chronograph minute counter. Movement, Nano Foudroyante mounted on a one-minute flying tourbillon, monopusher flyback chronograph; manual winding at 3Hz, power reserve 24 hours with chronograph on. White gold pin buckle, hand-engraved GF logo.

zelin0802 / May 23, 2024

How the Rolex Milgauss ticks all the boxes

Ever wonder why the Rolex Milgauss has a cult following among watch enthusiasts and collectors? That’s because this watch is no ordinary luxury replica watch. With its unique functionality, scientific roots and rich history, the Rolex Milgauss meets all the needs of those who appreciate the finer things in life.

Rolex Milgauss: A watch with a story
Every Rolex watch has a story, and the Milgauss is no exception. When first released in 1956, it was one of the few watches capable of withstanding magnetic fields of up to 1,000 Gauss. This was a major breakthrough at the time, especially for professionals working in fields where magnetic field interference could affect watch performance.

Although initially overlooked, the Rolex Milgauss has become a symbol of Rolex’s commitment to pushing boundaries and exceeding expectations. Its story reminds us that sometimes, true genius takes time to be recognized and appreciated.

What’s so special about the Rolex Milgauss?
The Rolex Milgauss is a timepiece that combines functionality with style, making it a unique standout in the world of replica luxury watches. Rooted in scientific precision and designed with attention to detail, this watch is truly something special. Here’s why:

  1. Antimagnetic performance
    The Rolex Milgauss is designed to withstand magnetic fields up to 1,000 Gauss. This feature was developed specifically for professionals working in high electromagnetic field environments, such as power plants, research laboratories and medical facilities, where watch mechanisms may be subject to interference. The name “Milgauss” itself is a nod to this feature, combining “mille” (Latin for “thousand”) and “gauss” (a unit of measurement for magnetic fields).
  2. Unique design
    In addition to its anti-magnetic properties, the Rolex Milgauss watch also has a unique design. It features a lightning seconds hand, a playful touch that sets it apart from other Rolex models and pays homage to its scientific origins.
  3. Comfort and style
    There’s more to Milgauss than meets the eye. It also provides a comfortable fit. With its 40mm Oystersteel case and smooth bezel, the watch feels good on your wrist without compromising on style. The black or white dial features luminous hour markers to ensure readability, while a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the dial.
  4. Complex technology
    The elegant appearance of the Rolex Milgauss hides complex technology. It is powered by Rolex’s proprietary Caliber 3131 self-winding mechanical movement. The 3131 movement includes features such as a perpetual rotor for self-winding and a Parachrom hairspring for increased precision.
  5. Magnetic shielding
    What’s truly unique about the Milgauss is its magnetic shielding. Made of a ferromagnetic alloy, this shield protects the movement from magnetic interference, allowing the watch to maintain accuracy even in high electromagnetic field environments.
  6. Fashion statement
    The Rolex Milgauss is also a fashion statement. With its clean lines, distinctive lightning seconds hand, and vibrant Z blue dial, the Milgauss is a standout in any high quality watches replica collection. Its subtle elegance makes it suitable for formal occasions, while its unique design elements add a whimsical feel that can spice up casual looks.

If you are a scientist studying electromagnetic fields, a watch collector looking for a unique piece for your collection, or simply an individual who appreciates the finer things in life, a Rolex Milgauss watch will satisfy all your needs.

Is the Rolex Milgauss rare?
The Rolex Milgauss may not be as ubiquitous as other Rolex models, but it has its own charm that makes it highly sought after. Although the Milgauss was first launched in 1956 as a tool watch for the scientific community, it was not an immediate hit due to its niche target market and unique design elements.

It wasn’t until the 2000s, when Rolex reintroduced the Milgauss, that the model began to gain recognition. Today, Milgauss are considered collectibles, especially early models and those with rare “Z-Blue” dials.

Why did Rolex discontinue the Milgauss?
Milgauss production ceased in the 1980s, mainly due to low initial demand. This watch was ahead of its time and many people didn’t understand or appreciate its unique features. However, its discontinuation only adds to its appeal.

When Rolex reintroduced the Milgauss in 2007, it generated a lot of attention. Newer models retain the unique features of the original models while incorporating modern enhancements such as improved movement and better magnetic resistance. Despite being discontinued long ago, the Milgauss continues to prove Rolex’s ability to blend function and form in luxury timepieces. high quality replica watches

collector’s dream
For watch collectors, the Rolex Milgauss is a dream addition to their collection. Its rich history, unique design elements and technical excellence make it a conversation starter. Early models, especially those from the 1950s and 1960s, are highly sought after for their rarity and vintage appeal. Meanwhile, newer models are admired for their modern interpretations of classics, with updated features and bold colors.

The Rolex Milgauss is truly a piece of history. From its birth in the science laboratory in the 1950s to its resurgence in the 21st century, Milgauss carries a story of resilience, innovation and timeless elegance. This is a timepiece that continues to inspire and fascinate, proving that true quality stands the test of time.

At first glance, the Rolex Milgauss looks like just a watch; But look closer and it’s a work of art, a scientific marvel and a piece of history. This is a watch that meets all the needs of best replica watch lovers and collectors. Its unique features coupled with a rich backstory make it a standout in the Rolex collection.

zelin0802 / June 27, 2023

Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 and GMT 45 Night Mission hands-on

Swiss watch company Breitling recently hosted a new Breitling Summit concept event in Los Angeles. Among the new models introduced are these two GMT watches: the Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 (Ref. A32395101C1A1 or A32395101C1X1 / A32395101C1X2) and the related Avenger Automatic GMT 45 Night Mission (Ref. V32395101B1X1 / V32395101B1X2).

First, a little bit about the brand’s campaign. I have said many times recently that the brand has been one of the best performing luxury watch companies over the past 18 months due to the rejuvenation of Georges Kern and his ability to execute on his ideas. If anything, Cohen’s short stint at Breitling (about two years) proved that if a company’s treasury arm allows the CEO to spend and invest for the future, no matter the current state of global investor confidence, you The power of what can be done. The good news for Breitling is that even today, their hard work has paid off.

Weeks before the release of his first film (in French), George Cohen sat at the Four Seasons Hotel in Beverly Hills with guests from all over the Americas to see him, his friends and his new work. I personally have never seen Mr. Cohen so relaxed and seems so hopeful for the future.

One of the reasons for Mr Cohen’s positive attitude is that Breitling’s business is growing – and in important regions such as the US and China. The United States has always been a strong market for Breitling. (It is often said to be the third-largest Swiss luxury watchmaker in the United States, behind Rolex and Omega.) Cohen was a globalist who understood that while tastes and preferences differed everywhere, Breitling needed to be a global watchmaker. brand. every meaning of the word. From a product standpoint, Cohen has also been lucky, not only because of his ability to simplify the brand’s notoriously chaotic model collections, but also because he has an archive of designs and styles that are particularly stylish today.

Well-made, good-looking watches aren’t enough, and Cohen’s understanding of Hollywood appeal mirrors his understanding of marketing. This, combined with his two decades of experience in the watch industry, makes him one of the very few CEOs of a leading watch brand who has the courage to try new things amidst a global recession, low morale, and extravagant luxury. Explorers (who continue to exist in droves) are chasing different pleasures than the previous generation.

For example, the next person to wear an Avenger Automatic GMT 45 might become a drone racing champion. In fact, Breitling is incorporating the movement of drone flight into its aviation heritage. The logic is sound, and on top of that, drone racing is also attracting a new generation of computer and video gamers looking for sports and heroes to relate to them.

From a horological standpoint, these new GMT watches are a smart move by Breitling, unlike anything I can think of in the current collection. What other time and GMT Breitling watch (without the chrono complication) can you think of? I know they’ve made GMT watches before, but I don’t think Breitling has actually made a modern GMT watch (and I’m not counting world time because that’s a completely different style of watch).

As GMT watches, these are good-looking timepieces, and the red GMT hands on both the blue-dial steel version and the military-style Night Mission are very easy to read and not easily confused with the hour or minute hands. On the other hand, the 24-hour scale is a bit small and requires good observation skills. This does mean that the unidirectional rotating bezel can still be used for the 60-minute chronograph – a rarity for a GMT watch in this line, to be honest. Plus, there’s the case size to contend with, making the Avenger Automatic GMT 45 too big for many people’s wrists. It is entirely possible that Breitling will introduce more versions with smaller cases in the future.

George Cohen also mentioned that part of his new strategy will be to release fewer watches at a time. Only 14 SKUs were launched at the Breitling Summit. In the past, the brand has produced such plentiful versions of each model that it has paralyzed consumers with choice. They do this because different tastes around the world will prompt them to produce slightly different styles. Today, brands are much more aware of what sells and what doesn’t, while being careful not to flood consumers or the news market with too much information at once. That’s my explanation of why Breitling seems to be teasing a new Avenger GMT watch concept, with two models in it, and it feels like there are plenty of other models that could be hiding behind the scenes. I personally love that these brands want people to focus on just a few styles and color treatments at a time.

In 2019, Breitling retired the Colt series and merged it into the Avenger series. These watches always looked too similar, and the new Avenger series actually has a completely new construction, but still has the iconic look and feel of modern Breitling. The case is 45mm wide and thanks to the generous lugs, they have real heft. They feel thin at just 12.3mm considering the width, and the case is water-resistant to 30 meters, with an AR-coated sapphire crystal on the dial.

Inside the watch, Breitling cheap uses a movement of Swiss origin (base ETA 2893, I believe), which they call a Caliber 32. It runs at 4 Hz, has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours, and features a date function in addition to the time and a 24-hour GMT hand for a second time zone display. Each Breitling movement is certified by the Swiss Official Observatory (COSC-Chronometer).

The Breitling Avenger Automatic GMT 45 is made of stainless steel with a combination of polished and brushed cases. When it first launched, it only had a blue dial and index hour markers, and the case was available with a matching blue fabric (leather-lined) strap or a beautiful three-link steel bracelet (my choice). The black and khaki-tan theme of the Avenger Automatic GMT 45 Night Mission makes everything more interesting.

The GMT 45 Night Mission is a handsome little devil with a black DLC-coated titanium case paired with a “sand-coloured” leather strap. The dial features a combination of indexes and stenciled hour markers that consistently create a good looking look. I imagine one could criticize Breitling for being too cautious about design innovation at this stage of the brand’s operations – and you might be right. That said, Breitling today does an excellent job of condensing Breitling’s core aesthetics into very stylish styles (even if they aren’t too original within the brand). In a few years, I think we’ll see more innovations in design from Mr. Kern. Currently, I think he is still trying to distill the core essence of Breitling in the various brand pillars (Aviation 8, Navitimer, Premier, SuperOcean, etc…).

Breitling now has two interesting contenders for the GMT model, but the competition in this space is fierce. I think these two Avenger automatic GMT 45 watches are popular, but it will take some time for people to really appreciate them. At that point, Breitling may further flesh out the collection and try out how Breitling can create a GMT fashion watches that only they can achieve.