zelin0802 / August 9, 2022

complication guru Franck Muller

As the exclusive UK distributor Franck Muller we are very excited to introduce new models in 2021. All mechanical watchmaking complications invented by Franck Muller are designed and developed at the heart of their own workshop. From the simple sketch of a world-first mechanism to the execution of the plan, every stage of watchmaking is tracked to its successful completion.

The Grand Central Tourbillon is a striking new collection with the tourbillon in focus, at the center of the timepiece. One of the complications of the collection was that we had to completely rethink the watch to move the tourbillon from its original 6 o’clock position to the center of the watch. In addition, the designers and watchmakers of Franck Muller had to find an innovative way to place the hour and second hands around the tourbillon cage to accentuate the beauty of the piece.

Frank Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton
The three-axis tourbillon of the new Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton corrects for gravity in all positions. This intricate frame system is a technological marvel and one of the most complex creations in haute horlogerie. Featuring a stunning skeletonized movement, this watch stylishly showcases skeletonized bridges, allowing you to observe one of the most beautiful mechanisms of all timepieces.

Franck Muller Pioneer Racing Skeleton
The VanguardTM Racing Skeleton sails in a sporty direction with its automotive-inspired lines, demanding a pure and stylish engine aesthetic. With its harmonious silhouette, impeccable craftsmanship and impeccably balanced proportions, this movement is skeletonized to create elegance alongside its sporty character.

FRANCK MULLER VANGUARD CRAZY HOURS YACHTS
With its harmonious silhouette, impeccable craftsmanship and impeccably balanced proportions, Vanguard Crazy HoursTM Yachting combines boldness and creativity with Franck Muller’s extraordinary Haute Horlogerie technology. The pinnacle of the Crazy Hours complication, it has captivated watch lovers over the years. With its unique handmade numerals, Vanguard Crazy HoursTM Yachting ensures a firm hold on the Franck Muller tradition with a youthful and futuristic aesthetic.

FRANCK MULLER VANGUARD rose cutout
Vanguard Rose Skeleton combines harmonious design with intelligent development. The technicality of the collection lies in the research that makes the rose essential to a mechanism with a skeletonized dial. Here, the flowers are not ornaments placed on the movement, they are cut from the bridges and baseplates to connect the mechanical movement together. They are an essential aesthetic decoration for timepieces. replica watches online

Frank Muller CIELO
The new Cielo collection affirms Franck Muller’s mastery of the art of watchmaking in the purest tradition. Purity and sober design are the guiding principles of the collection. The Cielo dial is crafted from natural blue aventurine, a semi-precious stone with a shimmering effect that gives it a sparkling effect. The name of the collection is inspired by the deep blue color of aventurine stone, reminiscent of the color of the night sky, while the shimmering minerals recall the stars.

Franck Muller GALET Moon Phase
A poetic complication, the moon phase, naturally finds its place at 6 o’clock to harmoniously complete the Galet collection. Equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement, this mysterious and fascinating timepiece complication displays the different cycles of the moon we see in the sky on a guilloche dial. The shape of the design is absolutely unprecedented, paying homage to simplicity and evoking calm and well-being. With its gentle angles, it is reminiscent of the smooth flow that nature is formed by the action of water.

Franck Muller GALET Moon Phase
Double Mystery Peony highlights the virtuosity of diamond setting, combining technical innovation and mechanical sophistication. The collection features an innovative time display system that makes the Double Mystery watch so successful: the hands are replaced by two rotating discs, each with an arrow-shaped indicator. The invention represented the successful mastering of a technical challenge and was patented in 1998.

zelin0802 / August 8, 2022

Watch the movie Brad Pitt wearing a platinum Breitling AVI Ref. 765 1953 Reissue of Bullet Train

This heavy, vintage-inspired platinum fake watch comes in handy in our watch-related movies this week.

In the new, ridiculous action movie Bullet Train, Brad Pitt plays a contract criminal who gets a briefcase full of $10 million by doing a simple snatch job. Yes, the case is on a bullet train.

Pete received contemporaneous instructions over the phone from his manager, and his job was to get on the bus at one stop, pick up the goods, and get off at the next stop. Given that this is a movie – like Kill Bill meets a kung fu hoax – I’m sure you can guess that there are no plans. Instead, Pete has to face a train full of criminals, all of whom unknowingly get caught up in an impossibly intertwined scene.

As a result, the only thing left to do is to fight each other mercilessly on the moving train. Pete is serious in this film and wears a precious metals retro revival of the blue-chip indie watch brand.

why are we watching
Today marks the opening day of the highly anticipated action comedy, directed by Pitt’s former stuntman David Leitch (as vividly as the Once Upon a Time in Hollywood plot is). I had the opportunity to attend an early screening and I had a great time. If you’re nervous about spurting blood, this one probably isn’t for you. However, if you like a good show on a watch on screen, and can manage to avoid some very intense (and often hilarious) over-the-top violence, in order to see said watch, I suggest you check this out.

Pitt plays Ladybug (codename, not real name – it’s the kind of movie where everyone has a codename). He is a hired thief/potential assassin who finds himself in hand-to-hand combat with other teams of assassins he has encountered in other jobs in the past. I won’t spoil why they find themselves together on this train, but let’s just say they don’t necessarily get along, and Ladybug is involved in some well-choreographed scenes that perfectly balance action and humor.

Is this a great movie? No, but it’s a quintessential summer popcorn movie — and one that’s even better because Ladybugs do all those ass kicks in a special Breitling retro revival.

Released in 2021, the Breitling AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-edition is a (shockingly) modern re-edition of the 1953 vintage Breitling watch, a complete vintage-meets-modern watch. We spent a week on the wrist with the steel variant of this model last year, and our very own Cole Pennington had some interesting things to say when comparing the new watch to the OG on which it’s based. “If the ’53 models were NOS [old and new stock] and hadn’t aged a day, I would have a hard time distinguishing them,” he wrote. “Even the difference in weight between watches is difficult to discern.”

Now, Pete chose the watch to wear in the movie, but he didn’t opt ​​for any changes. He became a movie star and opted for a platinum model with a blue dial. Only Pitt can strap a platinum vintage reissue watch to his wrist, make a creepy action movie, and make it look ordinary. Speaking of straps, he even swapped its leather strap for a stronger Breitling strap.

I know what you’re all thinking, “Come on, Danny, Brad Pitt is a Breitling ambassador! It’s just product placement.” Well, you’re right, Pitt is a Breitling ambassador. In fact, more specifically, he was a member of the Breitling film squad, working alongside Adam Driver and Charlize Theron. But you know what? Who cares, because Pete can easily wear whatever old watch Breitling wants him to wear. Maybe something more modern, maybe something the brand has a strong interest in selling. But that’s not what happened here. Instead, he chose the most esoteric version of a super-specific retro remake and made it part of his role in the film. Just because he’s paid for by a brand doesn’t mean the choice can’t be thoughtful. reviews aaa quality watches

He wears this watch throughout the movie. It’s always visible, although the amount of combat makes it difficult to laser light it at some point. The best part is that the movie features a close-up watch of the hero shots, which is probably the best I’ve seen in recent memory. It’s the kind of shot you can pause, frame, and hang on the wall if you want (though I’d also find it odd to do so).

Personally, I like the selection of Ladybug watches. He plays a somewhat indifferent character. A criminal who has recently undergone some soul searching and therapy and wants to improve his mental health while continuing to operate in the criminal underworld. Who knows if some big score in his past gave him a briefcase full of cash to go out and buy this platinum Breitling, or if it should represent an antique watch that may have been passed down to him. In either case, it looks very good. I mean, what can’t Brad Pitt accomplish?

when we are watching
Halfway through the film, Ladybug encounters an assassin named Orange (played by Aaron Taylor-Johnson) on a train. The two immediately get into hand-to-hand combat as Tangerine knows Ladybug is looking for the same briefcase he was looking for. They fought through various train cars until they reached the dining car. While hitting, kicking, and throwing objects, the pair were interrupted by a train worker who needed food. Staff did not notice the fight before she entered, asking if they wanted something to eat or drink. Ladybug gleefully asks for a bottle of water, and as he does, we can see the ’53 Re-Edition on his wrist. He continued to drink said water until she left, at which point…they fought again.

Later, Ladybug makes contact with another assassin, and a big fight ensues. Notice the theme here? After the fight, I definitely won’t spoil it, the ladybug is a little anxious, hiding on the floor of the train with a paper bag in hand. We can see the Breitling fake and its leather strap very clearly on his wrist as he tries to breathe and exhale the pressure. As you might expect, this won’t be his last fight.

zelin0802 / August 5, 2022

Rolex OYSTER DEEPSEA

Speaking of this year’s new copy Rolex products, you must first think of the “left-handed” Greenwich II, which is vividly called “Sprite Circle” by watch friends because of its green and black outer ring. Highly recognizable, it is undoubtedly the blockbuster of the year. On the other hand, the new Airmaster with added crown guard bridge is also highly popular. It upgrades the movement and appearance to enhance its sports attributes and further moves closer to Rolex professional watches. In addition, the women’s log-shaped flower plate, the 18K gold yacht, and the platinum ice blue DD have all received a lot of exposure. However, among the new products, the presence of the new ghost king Ref.136660 is very low, not only the forum is rarely discussed by friends, but even the official did not write news materials for it. We also learned about its information from the quietly updated details page. It can be said that it is the most low-key new product of Rolex this year. Unlike Airmaster’s iterative product, which was upgraded from the 31-series movement to the 32-series movement, in fact, the Ghost King Ref.126660 released in 2018 has been equipped with the Cal.3235 movement. The 2022 Ghost King has not changed the movement model, and still uses the Cal.3235 movement. It is more based on the fine-tuning of the appearance. The following is a summary of the upgrade points of this new product based on the information released by foreign media.

From the front, the most significant upgrade of the new ghost king is the calendar window. It has a larger display area, allowing the wearer to read the date clearly. We know that Rolex uses a convex lens calendar display window for both the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller. This design originated from the Datejust type and has now become one of the iconic elements of Rolex. However, among many Rolex diving watches, only the ghost king did not add a convex lens calendar display window. The reason is that the convex lens calendar window is not integrally formed, but is bonded by two pieces of sapphire glass through a special process. The waterproof level of the Ghost King is 3900 meters, and the pressure during deep diving is several times that of an ordinary diving watch. Therefore, in order to ensure stability, the Ghost King upgrades the calendar window only to increase the display area, rather than using a convex lens window.

The second upgrade of Ref.136660 is the bezel. The ceramic outer ring of the new ghost king has become more slender, which can improve the exquisiteness of the watch to a certain extent. At the same time, the brand has also optimized the rotation mechanism of the outer ring, and the new product has a better rotating feel. The mirror is also one of the upgrade points. The sapphire mirror with reflective coating can effectively resist strong light refraction and make reading more clear.

The luminous effect has also been optimized. Early Rolex watches all used Super-LumiNova luminous, which is currently the most mainstream luminous material. However, Rolex, which was produced after 2008, stopped the use of Super-LumiNova and changed it to the brand-exclusive Chromalight luminous. Chromaligh has a longer glow time and a stable level of light. The 2022 Ghost King Ref.136660 adopts the latest generation of Chromaligh luminous solution, and its luminous duration and brightness are improved compared with the previous generation of Chromaligh luminous.

After reading the front, let’s talk about the changes of the bottom cover. In the old Ref.126660, the black “ROLEX OYSTER DEEPSEA ♕ SEA-DWELLER 12800 ft = 3900 m” is surrounded by the edge of the titanium case back to indicate the series to which the watch belongs and its water resistance. In the bottom cover of the new Ref.136660, this material has an exclusive name: “RLX titanium alloy”.

However, with regard to the new Ghost King Ref.136660, no real pictures have been seen at home and abroad, and more details about this product have yet to be confirmed. In fact, Ghost King has not been highly recognized among players for a long time, which is not only reflected in the product market share, but also directly reflected in the secondary market. It is true that the 44mm watch diameter and the case thickness of more than 17mm are not friendly to the general body of Asians, which means that the ghost king has not been as universal as a water ghost since its birth. It is a work prepared by a few watch friends, so it is reasonable for the brand to upgrade its low-key.

zelin0802 / August 3, 2022

Patek Philippe World Time 5231J Watch

The groundbreaking world timepiece updated in 2019, the fake Patek Philippe World Time Reference. The 5231J is an almost impossible piece of horological art to buy.

Patek Philippe World Time Reference. New for 2019, the 5231J sits alongside the existing 5231, with a platinum case and matching platinum rice bead bracelet, defining the pinnacle of understated decadence. The 5231J features a yellow gold case of 38.5mm wide and 10.23mm high, slightly smaller than the 39.5mm wide 5231. This is the same case on the 5230 World Chronograph, which is easier to work with because their central dial has a finer guilloche pattern than the enamel. The smaller 38.5mm wide case is preferable, though, as it lacks the inscription “Patek Philippe” on the bezel at 12 o’clock and “Genève” at 6 o’clock. I just don’t think contemporary tastes gravitate towards bezel engraving (or well-designed fonts, for that matter).

Several people have correctly pointed out how 5231J is reminiscent of an extremely rare Ref. 2523, introduced in the mid-1950s, perhaps a Patek Philippe World Time watch. Notably, the winglet lugs and polished flat bezel you’ll see on this case were introduced in 2016 with the 5230 World Chronograph. This is a big year for world time watches due to changes in global governments such as Moscow. UTC+4 to UTC+3 and a global shift in power resulted in a new city in one time zone (Dubai replacing Riyadh is one of them). prices of PP watches

Enamel dial
The 5231J features a cloisonné enamel astronomical sphere in the center of the dial. Cloisonne is one of the four enamel processes used by Patek Philippe. The process involves taking a thin gold wire and bending it into the shape of the intended design. The wires are then fastened to the base plate coated with an enamel layer. After the cells formed from the wire are filled with enamel, the process then involves multiple firings, depending on the specific color and effect they are trying to achieve.

The enamel center depicts Europe, Africa and the Americas with a range of greens, browns and yellows, as well as blue representing water. When you see it up close and personal, it’s definitely a work of art. In the center of the enamel dial are (rather short) circular hour and toffee hands in 18k yellow gold. As you might guess, using short, polished gold hands on such a rich enamel background hinders legibility. I’d say it’s an unfortunate side effect inherent in this watch, but I wouldn’t argue with anyone who thinks the circular hour hand is an unforced error.

world time function
Along the outer ring are the names of 24 cities, each representing a time zone. At 10 o’clock, you’ll see the pushers move the time forward an hour when engaged (the minute hand is unaffected), as well as the city and 24-hour rings. The red arrow at the 12 o’clock position will point to the city corresponding to your time zone. Granted, you don’t get the precision increments that would allow a second time zone indicator of 30 or 45 minutes (there are 37 time zones around the world when you consider those), but the ease and elegance of the operation here is world-class. swiss copy Patek

Let’s not kid ourselves: a Patek Philippe World Time watch is one of those things that only Logan Roy from Succession doesn’t get knocked down — though perhaps he’ll be more impressed, “It tells you how rich you are at 24 in a time zone, Instead of licking the boots of future son-in-law Tom Wambsgans’ surprisingly cringe-worthy line, “It’s pretty accurate in telling you how rich you are,” when presenting the Patek Philippe.

The 5231J uses a Calibre 240 HU (for all Globeheads, that’s the Heure Universelle), which consists of 239 parts, including a 22k gold rotor, and the 240 HU has a power reserve of 48 hours. What’s really remarkable about the 240 HU is that it’s extremely thin, only 3.88mm thick, which is achieved through a patented design that allows the winding rotor to be integrated with the bridge plate. By comparison, the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 2460 WT (there are several, including the Overseas World Time 7700V) is 7.55mm thick and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 772 (Geophysical Time) is 7.13mm thick. As for the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra WorldTimer, I’m not quite sure about the thickness of the movement, but I know the case is 15.5mm thick.

zelin0802 / August 2, 2022

Richard Mille RM 27-04 Tourbillon

Resist the urge to draw parallel lines between Mssr. Miller’s business model and the plot of the Emperor’s New Clothes, let’s take a look at this watch that sells for the equivalent of eating at the world’s most expensive restaurant with 459 of your closest friends. . .

The highlight here is the big-name player – Spanish tennis ace Rafael Nadal. A decade ago, Miller struck a sponsorship deal with Lafite. The exact terms of the deal are unclear, but the Swiss watchmaker is sure to pick a winner. Make it a winner. Wikipedia:

Nadal has won 19 Grand Slam singles titles, the second-most titles by a male player in history, as well as 35 ATP Tour Masters 1000 titles, 21 ATP Tour 500 titles and the 2008 Olympic singles gold medal and 2016 Olympic singles gold medal. Olympic singles gold medal. Doubles.

In the majors, Nadal has won a record twelve French Open titles, four US Open titles, two Wimbledon titles and one Australian Open title, and has won at least one each year for ten consecutive years (2005-2014). Grand Slam champion. Nadal has won a total of 85 career titles, including the most outdoor titles in the Open Era (83) and a record 59 clay-court titles.

To upgrade the Nadal watch racket, Mille’s men mastered the art of turning a watch into a tennis racket.

The Richard Mille RM 27-04 ditched the PC-less but more nostalgic option of using a catgut, relying on 0.27mm steel cables to hold the movement in place. The tourbillon-driven motor is attached to the cable via five gold-colored titanium hooks. Hand weaving net machine can withstand shocks exceeding 12,000 Gs.

Like all his watches, the RM 27-04 has more sleeves than Transformers, including a TitaCarb® case (high tensile strength), a fast-turning barrel (ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio), Tourbillon dampers (to damp tourbillon vibrations), nitrile rubber O-rings (to stop the shuttle from exploding) and barrel pawls with progressive recoil (to lure the wealthy Bernie brothers).

Legibility isn’t a big factor, those fire-engine red Wankel engine rotors compete with similarly-colored hands and tiny triangular indexes for attention.

It’s ok. Mille used his bones to create watches, to Patek Philippe what Formula 1 was to the Auburn Boattail Speedster.

That said, an F1 car needs all of these technologies to go faster. Mille’s club’s sandwich-thick tech farragos end up doing better than a quartz Seiko — let alone a Citizen Satellite Wave GPS or Apple Watch.

The Richard Mille RM 27-04 is different from this cheesy wholesale watch fare. Like Patek Philippe, Mille stakes its demands on customers’ cash on itself with its sophistication, build quality, and exclusivity above all other factors.

The real question about RM 27-04: Mssr. Is it ok? Miller sells fifty? Should he?…

zelin0802 / August 1, 2022

Top 5 Subdials Watches For Men To Consider

Sometimes one of the most challenging things about collecting a watch is finding a watch that fits your wrist. While some people have big wrists that can handle watches of all sizes, the same cannot be said for everyone. Of course, not all of us have wrists like Arnold Schwarzenegger’s or Sylvester Stallone’s, who can easily strap on any Panerai of their choice and call it a day. So some of us need to be more careful about the watches we pick and how big their cases and dials are. So we wanted to explore 5 of the best watches men can choose from that are on the small side while offering everything a luxury watch should.

rolex explorer 36mm
To start our list is probably one of the most iconic field watches on the market, the Rolex Explorer. Originally a watch made for traversing mountains, the Explorer was built with a 36mm case from the start, based on its legibility requirements as a sports watch. In the early 1950s it was quite large at 36mm in diameter, but it didn’t get bigger until the 39mm ref. The 214670 was introduced in 2010 and was subsequently discontinued and replaced by the Explorer ref in 2021. 124670, which reintroduces the 36mm case to the Explorer family. Explorer ref. The 124670 is undoubtedly one of the best men’s subdials watches, and its integrity as a true luxury sports watch is impeccable.

Rolex Datejust 36mm
Another iconic timepiece for men to consider if they don’t want to wear a big watch is the Rolex Datejust in its original 36mm configuration. Originally introduced as a 36mm timepiece in 1945, it was also quite large at the time, so it remained unchanged until 2009. While the larger 41mm variant was introduced in 2009 as the Datejust II, the 36mm variant has never been discontinued and is therefore the most iconic and time-honored silhouette in watchmaking. Perfectly balanced after decades of production, the 36mm Rolex Datejust is one of the best watches on the market if they want a watch that is both iconic and equipped with the best Rolex has to offer Men, they can consider. Sporty when you need it, always classy and suitable for any occasion, the log can go anywhere and do anything.

Rolex Day-Date 36mm
Much like the Rolex Datejust 36mm, the Rolex Day-Date is another timepiece that entered production as a 36mm model and has been relatively unchanged since then. While 40mm and 41mm variants have come and gone, the 36mm variant is the most classic, traditional and steadfast, produced from Day-Date’s first reference, ref. 6510. Perfectly sized as the Datejust, the Day-Date is Rolex’s flagship timepiece, taking the Datejust’s classic aesthetic to make it more formal and unique. The Explorer takes the Datejust’s design and makes it sportier, while the Day-Date does the opposite, creating a watch fit for presidents, royalty and diplomats.

Tudor Black Bay 36mm
Leaving Rolex but staying in the family, we have one of the most popular timepieces on the market today, the Tudor Black Bay. Launched in 2012, Black Bay marked the re-emergence of Tudor in the diving watch world. Built to last, the Black Bay is a rugged and functional diver’s watch that blends stainless steel construction with a refined aesthetic in perfect harmony, flying under the radar or paired with a strap for a unique look Temperament and personality. Available in a variety of sizes, the 36mm model is an excellent choice for anyone looking to get away from the bulky timepieces we’ve seen time and time again.

Cartier Tank
From the Rolex Group, we explore Cartier, the famous French jeweler and watchmaker. While almost all of Cartier’s timepieces prefer smaller dial and case designs than most other watchmakers, almost all of them can be The Cartier Tank is the perfect watch for anyone who wants to wear a smaller dial. Available in a variety of sizes from less than 22mm wide to over 31mm wide, the tanks have everything. Iconic due to its unique rectangular profile, rich history and stunning looks, Tank could be perfect for the gentleman who wants a luxury watch that looks great in a smaller configuration timepiece. Thanks to its rectangular profile, the Tank looks incredible as a smaller watch and can easily be worn no matter the size of its owner’s wrist.

zelin0802 / July 25, 2022

Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Titanium

Back in 2015, the GMT Black paved the way for the GMT Sport. Building on this, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey invented and launched a lightweight and ultra-strong profiled titanium case with an oval bezel and integrated lugs , to showcase the new movement. The new case looks perfectly round from above, while showing off the prominent arches and ovals from other angles. Thanks to the unique functional form, the integrated lugs and strap fit perfectly on any wrist. Greubel Forsey values ​​are engraved on the outer ring of the satin bezel in relief. Arched bridges and sloping gear trains showcase the new movement architecture.

The focus of the sporty GMT Sport is legibility and efficiency. Hours and minutes are indicated by concentric skeletonized hands whose curvilinear contours follow the curvature of the case and movement. The gear train is mounted on a suspended arched central bridge with black treated openings, following the curve of the bridge, overlooking the globe to drive the hour and minute hands. The triangular tips of the arrow-shaped hands and the markers on the minute ring are coated with a luminous coating. The subdial between 10 and 11 o’clock combines the small seconds on a large rotating disc and a second time zone display with hands. The 72-hour power reserve (guaranteed by two coaxial barrels in series) is shown on a sector at 3 o’clock, with its skeletonized hands and a highlighted red triangle. The power-reserve differential under the arched bridges is subtly engraved with Greubel Forsey values.

The 24-second tourbillon is located at 1 o’clock, and its unique and highly polished tourbillon bridge has a black-finish opening. Already the third fundamental invention of Greubel Forsey in the field of tourbillons (after the 30° double and quadruple tourbillons), its cage is inclined at 25° and can complete a full revolution in 24 hours. The higher speed combined with the innovative frame inclination significantly improves the timekeeping performance of the single tourbillon system.

Back in 2011, Greubel Forsey fake introduced the remarkable GMT mechanism. In this dual-patented mechanism, the second time zone display between 10 and 11 o’clock on the secondary dial combines with the universal time display to visually read the current time anywhere in the world. The spectacular sight of the Earth Rotating Globe completes each full counterclockwise rotation in 24 hours. It is surrounded by a sapphire crystal ring with a 24-hour index. Thus, the wearer can read local time at all longitudes, including day/night indicators. On the back side of the GMT Sport, the outer and central rings form the sapphire city disc, providing UTC Universal Time and Daylight Saving Time for 24 cities in the main time zones. The disc distinguishes between time zones where daylight saving time is applied and time zones where daylight saving time is not applied. The GMT functions are controlled by two buttons located on the left side of the case.

The new GMT Sport is available as a limited edition with a black or blue rubber strap. A titanium folding clasp enhances the comfort and ergonomics of this exceptional Greubel Forsey replica watches online.

zelin0802 / July 22, 2022

Grand Seiko Eleance Collection Brings New Slim Case and New GS Movement

Big news from Japan today: the new Grand Seiko Elegance collection brings a new ultra-thin case, some very special dials, and most importantly, the new Grand Seiko Calibre 9S63 hand-wound mechanical movement. (However, Grand Seiko’s recent pricing anomaly appears to persist.) More on all of this below.

It’s really been a breath of fresh air to see Grand Seiko’s new collection – apparently, they couldn’t keep up their excitement ahead of BaselWorld either. Currently, the Grand Seiko Elegance collection includes four models: two in 18-karat rose gold (ref. SBGK002; red. SBGK004), one in 18-karat gold (ref. SBGK006) and one in stainless steel (ref. SBGK006). SBGK005 — Yay! ).

Eight years after the last hand-wound mechanical movement at Grand Seiko, all four Elegance Collection watches feature the same new 9S63 calibre, running at 4 Hz and offering a 72-hour power reserve. This appears to be the new baseline feature for all previous-generation movements introduced recently, which is a good thing. On the dial side, the movement displays the central hours and minutes, the seconds hand at 9 o’clock and the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. Gone are the offset power reserves we see on Spring Drive Grand Seikos, like my beloved SBGC001 Spring Drive Chronograph, review it here.

Grand Seiko says the 9S63’s accuracy is between -3 and +5 seconds per day, and if there’s anything to be commended about all the major Japanese brands, it’s their honest and down-to-earth accuracy claims – unlike the Swiss (or even A more optimistic statement often heard by some German) manufacturers. Although Grand Seiko sometimes tends to distinguish between gold and steel models of movement, in this case (pun intended) all four models will feature the Grand Seiko 9S63 movement with hot blue screws – apparently, this is Grand Seiko’s first. Very cute, if you ask me.

If tempered screws are sweet, the dials are stunning: both 18ct rose gold versions (references SBGK002 and SBGK004) feature Urushi dials. These traditional Japanese lacquered dials are produced in the Shizukuishi Watch Studio, where all mechanical watches are made, using sap from trees that grow around the small town north of the studio. The translucent brown and dark black Urushi dial complements the taka-maki-e tiered markers and “GS” lettering. Maki-e literally means “sprinkled picture”, while taka-maki-e is a “raised” or layered variant.

This technique was developed during the Muromachi period (1336-1573) and meant that the desired pattern was made of countless layers of material built on the base lacquered dial. For the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Urushi dial, multiple layers of pure gold or platinum powder are sprinkled on the dial one layer at a time (guess what?) this is a “time consuming process”. It reminds me of the PVD-coated platinum numerals in the ceramic bezels of select Rolex watches – while Rolex’s solution is cutting-edge high-tech, Grand Seiko’s approach is heart-warmingly traditional.

The hands – if you’ve never had a chance to hold a Grand Seiko before – eat your warm heart – are beautiful, at least in the official pictures, and look beautiful with every dial variation. As cool as the Urushi dial might be, I’m still curiously drawn to the 18ct yellow gold version and the plain Jane white dial – a nod to the unmistakable and unmistakable Japanese design of the Elegance Collection, which seems to me, at least to me, in this gold The most prominent of the variants.

In this regard, I’m very grateful for how Grand Seiko has incorporated elements of its much-loved case design into this new 39mm wide and 11.6mm thick “Mechanical Skirt Collection” watch – because yes, this is the Grand Seiko is referring to this new timepiece collection. The sturdy, curved lugs feature wide upper surfaces, but are cut short to keep the case away from the upper and lower edges of the wrist—a must for any decent dress fake watch. The lugs seem to be fairly narrow in width, but I think they pull it off somehow, which is just right quirky and doesn’t look weird or petite. I’d take the risk of eyeing it at 18mm; the GS doesn’t currently offer such a spec, but the lug width does look narrow, and we’ll have to see these in action to better determine how the Elegance Collection will actually fit.

Closed – or open, depending on how you want to look at it – this new Elegance collection of four watches is a stainless steel variant (reference SBGK005) with the exact same case shape and size as the gold version, but with a blue textured dial. Texture GS is called “Mt. Iwate” pattern; the watch studio is located in Morioka city in northeastern Iwate prefecture. Exactly how this crease texture ties into Iwate I’m not sure, but it’s a recurring theme in select Grand Seiko models.

The pricing structure of the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection turned things upside down. As one might expect, the two rose gold variants with Urushi dials will command a premium over the gold versions with regular lacquered dials and no taka-maki-e indexes and GS designation. Fans of Seiko and Grand Seiko may remember the Presage Automatic we covered here, where €2,500 buys you a multi-coloured Urushi dial and a whole watch with case, movement, strap, and more.

To me at least, the gold one in rose gold very incomprehensible – another nail in the coffin of the late Grand Seiko’s sensible pricing strategy. Rose gold may have some premium over gold, but four times the cost of an entire copy watch with a similar dial makes no sense. I’ll admit, other than Grand Seiko’s greedy random price generator software working hard again, I’ve yet to understand how this crazy premium is justified.

zelin0802 / July 18, 2022

Subverting watchmaking norms, this Freak X is dazzling

The Ulysse Nardin Fantasy series is already synonymous with subversion and innovation in the field of watches, and the Freak X watch launched in 2019 is positioned to be young and lower the threshold to allow watch friends to start better. Everyone is welcome. When I introduced the silicon dial style before, I happened to chat with you that there are currently two special dial designs in this series, one is silicon inlay, and the other is black and white camouflage. This black and white camouflage plate, today I will introduce it to you in detail.

Before introducing the watch, let’s talk about how the black and white camouflage of this Freak X in Athens came from? Ulysse Nardin has a deep historical relationship with the sailing world and the navies of many countries. This watch is familiar to all of you. The dazzling camouflage is also known as zebra painting. It was the first ship camouflage adopted by British warships during World War I. Camouflage, with dazzling camouflage patterns to cover up ships, but its purpose is not to “stealth” in the sea, like jungle camouflage, you can’t find it in the woods, making the battleship invisible at sea, it can’t be achieved, Therefore, the zebra camouflage is to make the enemy unable to distinguish, the outline of the hull, the distance, speed and heading of the ship, and the direction of the bow and stern from a long distance. However, although it does reduce the sinking rate of the battleship, this eye-catching design also increases the probability of the battleship being attacked, so we can also understand that the significance of Athens using this coating is to make the watch more eye-catching.

The 43mm case is made of titanium. Athens uses a DLC black coating for it and is decorated with a brushed process. This side of the case has a classic nameplate design, engraved with a separate digital code, and you can see the watch. Limited edition of 30 pieces.

The difference between the Freak X and the Freak whimsy that can be distinguished at a glance is the added crown at 3 o’clock. The water resistance of the entire watch is 50 meters.

The black and white zebra pattern on the dial of the watch, reinterpreted by the design department with geometric beauty, is indeed very modern art. Ulysse Nardin copy also uses three different polishing and decoration techniques to make it, including lacquer decoration, Electroplating and laser engraving for the ultimate dazzling effect.

Freak X’s Carrousel bar movement rotates 1 revolution per hour, which is used as a minute hand indication. The short lower bridge plate is an hour indication, and the entire disk surface will also rotate with time. On the Carrousel mechanism, we can also clearly see the large, ultra-light silicon balance wheel with nickel counterweight and stabilizing micro silicon flakes.

Freak X’s luminous effect is often a link that everyone will ignore. In fact, it does a good job. As you can see from the luminous effect in the picture, it belongs to the sci-fi style of Freak X.

In terms of movement, the watch is equipped with the UN-230 automatic movement produced in Athens, which is based on the UN-118 automatic movement with the addition of the Carrousel module. We will often say that the movement is assembled with the UN-118 movement. And the UN-250 movement of the Freak Vision and Transcend watch, the advantages of these two movements actually refer to the fact that the UN-230 uses diamond silicon crystal technology on the one hand, and a layer of diamond film is plated on the silicon parts, which is better than no plating. The silicon is more resistant to wear, and has better hardness and smoothness. At the same time, it overcomes the problem that silicon is easy to break during processing, and inherits the large silicon ultra-light balance wheel from UN-250. The movement data is 21,600 times per hour, and the full chain dynamic storage can provide 72 hours.

The original luxury copy watches offers a choice of black and white straps, a black hollow rubber-coated leather strap, and a white hollow calfskin strap. We photographed this, but changed it to a black alligator leather strap, which is also very good. Fits the watch.

This Freak X dazzling camouflage watch, I think it is in terms of visual effects, even if you don’t have to cooperate with popular modern artists like other brands, Athens can play with its own understanding of aesthetic design. This kind of expressive modern art effect, so this piece of whimsy freak X has a unique charm and is the best carrier to show the wearer’s unique personality. The metallic properties are laid out here.

zelin0802 / July 12, 2022

Richard Mille RM 50-03 McLaren F1: The world’s lightest minute-seconds tourbillon chronograph

There was only one new timepiece from Richard Mille at the SIHH Watch Salon last week, but it’s pretty awesome. With its RM 50-03 McLaren F1 model – which debuted as the world’s lightest split-seconds chronograph tourbillon watch, weighing less than 40 grams including strap – the brand brings yet another high-tech Material introduced to watchmaking: Graph TPT, also known as graphene.

Graphene was first isolated back in 2004 by Professor Andre Geim from the School of Physics and Astronomy at the University of Manchester. He and his colleague Professor Konstantin Novoselov were awarded the Nobel Prize for this discovery in 2010 and at the University in 2015. Collaborative research between the Institute, McLaren Applied Technologies and North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT) has resulted in a case machined in a modified form of carbon TPT, the physical properties of which have been enhanced by the introduction of graphene .

Graphene, a nanomaterial six times lighter and 200 times stronger than steel, is currently the focus of work between McLaren Technology Group and McLaren Honda to bring the material to McLaren Grand Prix cars . Richard Mille’s timepieces have long shown motorsport influences in their designs and materials, and he sees graphene’s physical properties as significantly reducing the density of its carbon composite case while increasing its a means of resistance.

Carbon TPT, first introduced to the watch industry by copy Richard Mille in 2013, consists of 600 layers of parallel carbon filaments, each no thicker than 30 microns, impregnated with a supercharged resin and compiled by a CNC machine, where the fibers are inserted between the layers The direction changes by 45°. The composite was then heated to 120 degrees Celsius under 6 bar pressure to cure it. Graphene is added to the resin mixture, and the end result is a material known as Graph TPT, used exclusively in watchmaking by Richard Mille. The Graph TPT case of the RM 50-03 consists of three parts, manipulating the material by creating and programming special ultra-precision cutting tools over a long period of time, with a high degree of durability and extreme lightness, while also exhibiting the same undulating, wooden Grain – like the characteristic stripes on other Richard Mille watches made of carbon TPT.

The movement is also very light – just 7 grams – thanks largely to the use of grade 5 titanium and carbon TPT for the baseplate and bridges, as well as the extreme skeletonisation of these and other components. (Titanium is used extensively in McLaren Racing’s Formula 1 engineering build program to lighten and strengthen chassis and aerodynamic elements, and as a material for transmissions, linkages and valve systems. The sport combines brushed, polished, satin finishes And the soft-polished surfaces are all done by hand. The dial, also made of titanium, requires three hours of angling and polishing.

Carbon fiber TPT is also used for the lateral cage, inspired by the wishbone suspension structure of McLaren-Honda Formula 1 cars, and is attached to the case to support movement without traditional case rings. This unconventional system allows for a perfect fit between the movement and the case and increases resistance: in tests carried out at the Richard Mille workshop, the case movement endured a shock load of 5,000 Gs without incident.

The RM 50-03 McLaren F1 combines the tourbillon escapement with the split-seconds chronograph function in one mechanism, requiring perfect energy transmission. The need to reduce friction prompted Richard Mille’s watchmakers to improve the tooth profiles on the movement’s barrel and gear train, resulting in more balanced torque and optimized output. Torque and 70-hour power reserve are displayed on coloured scales on the front of the watch between 11 o’clock and 1 o’clock.

Other technical and aesthetic touches influenced by McLaren Formula 1 include the skeletonized chronograph pushers, reminiscent of the air intake ducts of McLaren Hondas, and the shape of the crown resembling a racing rim.

After extensive research on the split-seconds clip, Richard Mille developed a new split-seconds mechanism for this watch that reduces the energy consumption of the chronograph by 50% while reducing spindle friction. The six-column wheel that controls each rocker of the split-seconds function is designed to ensure perfectly synchronised movements, clean functional locking and very stable settings.

Graphene and its unique properties are also incorporated into the strap: nanomaterials are added to the rubber strap to increase its elasticity and wear resistance. copy watch for sale