zelin0802 / December 6, 2022

A Closer Look: Patek Philippe Ref. 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph

“Salmon” and steel.

While most of the buzz surrounding Patek Philippe’s recent releases has centered around the Nautilus ref. 5811/1G white gold, vintages aside from the Nautilus and Aquanaut are mostly about. One of the most striking new additions for 2022 is the World Time Flyback Chronograph ref. 5935A-001.

Continuing Patek Philippe’s steel watch developments beyond its traditional sports models, ref. 5935A is a fresh take on a model that debuted in 2016. Previously only precious metals (i.e. white gold or platinum) were offered, ref. The 5935A is the first stainless steel model and one of the brand’s few complex metal models. and referee. The 5935A is larger in diameter than its predecessor, but its most striking feature is the “rose gold-plated opal” (or “salmon”, if you prefer) dial.

The World Time in steel is significant because the World Time is arguably Patek Philippe’s signature watch. A selection of vintage models is one of the few reference models from Patek Philippe that can sell for seven or even eight figures.

awarded to the referee. 5935A adds a chronograph, but it still has the modern style of the iconic complication. referee. 5935A retains the familiar Louis Cottier-type world time display that is almost synonymous with Patek Philippe, but in modern materials and colors. The 41mm diameter is also larger than the usual size for Patek Philippe complications, giving it a sporty feel.

Naturally, for many, the dial is probably the biggest selling point of this watch. The pink hue, often called “salmon” or copper, is a trendy color at the moment—I’m a huge fan of the shade myself—and it’s perfect for this particular style.

For one thing, this color is usually only found in platinum watches or special editions. But lately Patek Philippe has been introducing the color to a wider range of models, including the ref. 5320G and ref. 5172 grams. Adding pops of color to these models is a shrewd way to increase their visibility and popularity, perhaps diverting attention away from the Nautilus and Aquanaut.

referee. Larger, lighter and louder than the average Patek complication watch, the 5935A is a compelling alternative for anyone who prefers world time or more general complications but wants a more casual and modern aesthetic .

Part of that is due to the steel case, ref. The 5935A is an entry model, at least by the benchmark of Patek Philippe complication watches. At just over $63,000, it’s not much of a value proposition—it’s rarely used to describe Patek Philippe anyway—but it’s one of the most affordable complications in the catalog, and one of the most interesting.

Stainless steel
If you are a watch lover who is familiar with cheap Patek Philippe, then you will know that complex watches with stainless steel cases are often very special. For example, the most expensive Patek Philippe ever made is stainless steel. Leaving aside the Nautilus and Aquanaut collections, Patek Philippe only has two steel complications, the ref. 5905/1A and this ref. 5935A.

Besides being rare, steel is a strong material and arguably more versatile from a visual standpoint, as it can be both casual and formal. Although larger than its predecessor, the ref. The 5935A is lighter due to the case material.

Despite being larger — it’s 41mm, compared to 39.5mm for the Platinum model — it doesn’t look or feel significantly larger. However, it stands out on the wrist thanks to the dial color, which also gives it the feel of a sporty everyday watch (though not exactly a sports watch).

Other than that, the case is the same as its precious metal counterpart. It’s fully polished and has the same “winglet” style lugs inspired by vintage refs. 2523 world time. The pushers on the case are the same: chronograph pushers at two and four o’clock, and a world time pusher at 10 o’clock.

While the case is of excellent quality, the finish is uniform. More variation in the case finish would make it more attractive, not least because the shape of the lugs lends itself to alternating surface finishes. This will also better differentiate it from the precious metal version.

About the case, the only thing I would definitely change is the strap, which feels lackluster relative to the look of the watch (and its price). The copy watch comes with a pair of straps in the same color, one in grained calfskin and the other in nubuck, but both feel a bit too thin for the case.

“Rose Gold Plated Opal…Carbon.”
Without a doubt, the highlight of the references. 5935A is the dial. Described by Patek Philippe as a “rose gold-plated opal,” the dial is decorated with a “carbon” pattern that first appeared on Calatrava ref. 6007A made to commemorate the inauguration of the brand’s new headquarters in Geneva. It’s this prominent pattern that gives the watch a casual vibe that complements the stainless steel case.

While Patek Philippe did not specify the nature of the motif, it appears to be stamped and extremely precise. Traditional, engraved guilloché would have been a bonus, but Patek Philippe only offers it in its top complications or rare handcrafts, all with watches priced in the six figures. The watch retails for just over $63,000, which makes it an approachable complication by Patek Philippe standards.

Notably, the central portion of the guilloché appears to be the same size as on the smaller reference. 5930P. Instead, the world time ring is larger to accommodate the enlarged case. Reference ratio. The 5935A is arguably better than its smaller cousin, as the urban disc feels cramped.

But the downside of keeping the central part the same size is the 30-minute register at 6 o’clock, which is still quite small. It’s sharp enough, but feels unnaturally small.

The rest of the dial is typical Patek Philippe, which is to say quite refined and detailed. The applied hour markers are solid gold but plated with a dark gray finish, as are the hands, while the brand name is on a plaque inserted into the dial just below 12 o’clock.

double complication
referee. The 5935A is a world time flyback chronograph, a novel but complementary combination of complications powered by the CH 28-520 HU that debuted in 2016 alongside ref.5935A. 5930G. Despite the unusual complication, the movement features signature Patek Philippe mechanical elements, namely the Gyromax balance wheel and the Spiromax hairspring in silicon.

The movement is made up of 343 individual parts – roughly double that of a normal chronograph – including the column wheel and the chronograph’s vertical clutch, while the world time mechanism is an additional module below the dial. By Patek Philippe standards, it is relatively compact and slim considering its functionality, measuring 34.5mm in diameter and 7.97mm in height.

In terms of trim, the CH 28-520 HU lives up to what you would expect from a current Patek Philippe. Its decoration is clean and thorough, though mostly by machine, with a few hand touches here and there – industrial haute horology, in other words.

Importantly, the decoration of the movement has improved significantly over time, reflecting the brand’s substantial progress in aesthetic sophistication. For example, the bevels of the bridges and counterbores are now mirror-polished and no longer have the milling marks visible on the ten-year-old caliber examples.

After spending some time with the referee. 5935A, it’s easy to see why this is one of the stars of the 2022 collection. For starters, it combines a pair of useful complications in a steel case — the material alone will appeal to some enthusiasts — and it looks good, too.

referee. The 5935A is undoubtedly an expensive watch by almost all benchmarks, but by Patek Philippe standards it is acceptable. Admittedly, availability will be zero in the short term, as with any new Patek Philippe model, but it will become more readily available in the near future, and as always, this will be a reference. The 5935A is a compelling proposition.

Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph
Ref. 5935A-001

Diameter: 41mm
Height: 12.75 mm
Material: stainless steel watch
Mirror: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 meters

Movement: Cal. CH 28-520 HU
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph and world time
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Chain: Automatic
Power Reserve: 50-55 hours

Strap: Calfskin with folding buckle, additional nubuck calfskin strap

zelin0802 / December 5, 2022

One More Wave x Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronometer Supports Disabled Surfing Veterans

Ulysse Nardin fake has teamed up with veterans nonprofit One More Wave to release its second dive watch, just in time for Veterans Day.

The Swiss watchmaker first partnered with One More Wave, a San Diego-based organization that makes custom surfboards for disabled veterans, in 2019 when they released the Diver Deep Dive OMW, and both partners have Ocean roots.

This latest watch – the limited edition Diver Chronometer OMW – designed by members of the One More Wave, is water resistant to 300 meters and features a black dial and a DLC titanium 44mm case with turquoise accents. The One More Wave trident logo – also in black and turquoise – is located in the center of the watch’s sapphire crystal case back.

“We would not be the organization we are today without the support of Ulysse Nardin,” said One More Wave founder and former US Navy SEAL Alex West.

Ulysse Nardin’s latest dive watch is to support veterans

The watch celebrates the brand’s partnership with One More Wave, a nonprofit that helps veterans use surf therapy.

Back in 2015, former U.S. Navy SEAL Alex West founded his registered nonprofit, One More Wave, to provide disabled veterans with a sense of community and purpose through the medium of surfing. Living in San Diego, CA, he and a small group of volunteers build surfboards to meet the physical and performance needs of individual veterinarians who can surf through five OMW centers across the country.

In 2019, nautical-focused watch brand Ulysse Nardin teamed up with One More Wave to launch a special edition contemporary Diver Deep Dive watch. This month, the partnership returns with a new iteration, officially named the Diver Chronometer 44m OMW, once again raising funds for One More Wave’s operations.

The new 300m diver’s watch is a certified chronometer, which in modern parlance means it has been rigorously tested for accuracy by the independent Swiss body COSC (Contrôle Officielle Suisse des Chronomètres). This level of technical precision is relatively rare among contemporary sports watches, making it an interesting proposition for serious collectors looking to make a big splash. Historically, UN efforts have focused on more accurate timekeeping. Since its founding in 1846, the company has manufactured marine timepieces for as many as 40 navies around the world, all with the high precision required to efficiently navigate the high seas. The COSC approval thus places this new version firmly in the brand’s long tradition in terms of functionality.

Where it breaks with convention, however, is in its aesthetics. While older Ulysse Nardin watches often echoed its nautical and nautical vintage style with plain white dials and Roman numerals, over the past 15 years the manufacturer has broken away from its traditional design language to create forward-thinking and sporty pieces . Following in the footsteps of these new additions, the Diver Chronometer 44m OMW features a matte black sandblasted titanium on gray rubber with turquoise accents in a case that is remarkably contemporary.

The new watch, limited to 100 pieces, is powered by the in-house Caliber UN 118 movement with hours, seconds, minutes, date and a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. It also features a concave, inward-facing bezel, once a common fixture on professional dive fake luxury watches. At the same time, the logo of Athens Watch and One More Wave is engraved on the transparent sapphire case back.

zelin0802 / December 2, 2022

HYT

Hastroid Cosmic Hunter: The New Bronze Age

Across time and space, a new type of spaceship is relentlessly exploring the watchmaking galaxy in search of new and unique expressions of the art of watchmaking.

This fall, HYT Hastroid arrives in a warm and sensual hue in a bronze shell. An original variation to say the least, as it combines the futuristic nature of Hastroid with a material texture dating back to the most ancient times. Elegant and sophisticated, the new Hastroid Cosmic Hunter is the perfect complement to HYT’s bold approach.

depositary receipt

“What we have worked on is a masterful craft that combines fluid technology and mechanical sophistication,” said Davide Cerrato, CEO and creative director of HYT.

Hastroid, Retro Hunter Skin
This craftsmanship is clearly reflected in the bi-material case design of the new Hastroid Cosmic Hunter, which measures 48mm in diameter, 52.3mm in overall length and 17.2mm in case thickness. The originality of this piece lies in the combination of carbon and titanium, plated with a PVD bronze treatment and microbeaded finish. The benefit of this bronze electroplated finish is the vintage hunter look combined with the surprising lightness of the Hastroid.

For thousands of years, bronze has traditionally been an alloy of copper and tin, which has a color close to that of gold, but is often altered by oxidation. It is not uncommon for the bronze to turn black or take on a patina. To make its new Hastroid Cosmic Hunter timeless, HYT cheap decided to use a stable finish to keep the bronze color. By anchoring its beauty and lightness, using a resolutely modern approach, without any nostalgia or attempt to create an artificial retro effect, HYT is bringing bronze into a new futuristic era.

Offering a beautiful contrast, this variation of case color accentuates the optimal readability of the dial, with its beige numerals in state-of-the-art Lumicast® material, a three-dimensional Superluminova® application emphasizing brilliance, its matte black-treated hands, and of course There are also liquids that show time retrograde. This black liquid, within its ultra-fine borosilicate capillaries, is the strikingly unique feature of the mecafluidic timepieces designed by HYT.

“Mecafluidic technology is a new term in scientific research, used in luxury watchmaking. We have the ability to highlight the symbiotic nature of these two technologies (mechanical and fluidic),” said Davide Cerrato, CEO and Creative Director of HYT.

The Hastroid’s multi-layered middle case presents a subtle openwork, while the watch as a whole has a sandwich construction, is water resistant to 50 meters, and has a central protective titanium case for the movement that optimally handles the tasks assigned to this new spacecraft . Discount replica watches

Like the flight deck, the watch is topped by a domed sapphire crystal, allowing a mostly unobstructed view of the entire dial. Of course, the heart of the mecafluid mechanism remains the fluid system, with its two central “bellows” reservoirs, a design unique to HYT’s work, enhancing the character and sense of strength around the dial and the capillaries.

It is driven by a hand-wound mechanical movement, caliber 501 CM, beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and has a power reserve of 72 hours.

The movement was designed by Eric Coudray®, renowned master watchmaker and winner of the 2012 Prix Gaïa. With the assistance of PURTEC (part of the TEC Group) and his longtime friend and watchmaker Paul Clémenti (Gaïa 2018), the movement is elegantly satin-finished or laser-treated or sandblasted for a more refined look and finishes.

Underscoring the character of this modern haute horlogerie, the black rubber bracelet with green Alcantara® inlays has a military touch and embossed Corioform® design inspired by the spacesuits worn by astronauts.

Rare and original, the new Hastroid Cosmic Hunter (ref. H02756-A).

zelin0802 / November 30, 2022

Patek Philippe Launches Four New Grande Complications Watches

Since its founding in 1839, Patek Philippe fake has used gem-setting techniques to adorn its timepieces.

While diamonds may seem to complement the style of any watch, it’s important to remember that a factory-set timepiece has more meaning and value than an aftermarket example. It showcases the sheer talent and innovative approach of a pioneering brand built on precision and excellence. Since its founding in 1839, Patek Philippe’s luxury watchmakers have focused on adorning its collections of complex timepieces with gem-setting throughout their case designs. fashion replica watches

Patek Philippe is proud to continue its gem-setting art with four new popular and colorful models. The first collection to receive recognition is the Grandmaster Chime, which pays homage to the mechanical sophistication of this flagship model with the launch of two new Platinum versions. The second watch released in the new collection is the coveted perpetual calendar chronograph, which highlights the two jewelry versions of blue and red gemstones.

Reference 6300/400G
Case : 49.4 mm 18K white gold double-sided (409 diamonds)
Dial: Ebony black opal on time/calendar side
Movement: Caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM
Strap/clasp: black alligator leather/diamond-set folding clasp

Reference 6300/401G
Case : 49.4 mm 18K white gold double face watch (291 diamonds/118 sapphires)
Dial: Ebony black opal on time/calendar side
Movement: Caliber 300 GS AL 36‑750 QIS FUS IRM
Strap/clasp: black alligator leather/diamond-set folding clasp

Reference 5271/12P
Case : 41 mm platinum (80 rubies)
Dial: Lacquer red
Movement: Caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q
Strap/clasp: black alligator leather/diamond-set folding clasp

Reference 5271/11P
Case : 41 mm platinum (80 sapphires)
Dial: Lacquer blue
Movement: Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q
Strap/clasp: black alligator leather/diamond-set folding clasp

zelin0802 / November 28, 2022

The New Breitling Navitimer Astronaut and the Incredible Story Behind It

Not one, but two Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute watches have just been unveiled. First up is an actual 60s-year-old watch, on public display for the first time: the first Swiss wristwatch (wowzers) to go into space, a Navitimer specially modified by astronaut Scott Carpenter. Second, the new Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Astronaut Limited Edition – a little wordy – is a nod to Carpenter’s 24th Mercury-Atlas 7 mission worn by astronauts who orbited the Earth three times. A modern tribute to lap time wear. May 1962. Exactly 60 years ago.

As Breitling fans know, almost every year since Georges Kern took over as CEO, the Grenchen-based watchmaker has released a “heritage” edition watch , for pure fan service. Highly limited editions, this collection includes a reissue of the legendary Navitimer 806, as well as a trio of AVI 765 (a favorite of Breitling historian and consultant Fred Mandelbaum). This year, Breitling marks another important brand milestone around the 1962 Cosmonaute, the 60th anniversary of another legendary reference watch with two unique characteristics: First, it is recognized by Breitling collectors as the first Swiss watch in space. The Discount replica watches, and secondly, its unique 24-hour time display, was at the special request of Carpenter himself.

Why display 24 hours in space? On a 5-hour space mission?

That’s not to say he can track AM/PM times any more safely and conveniently. Space missions revolve around many complex elements, and redundancy is certainly one of them. Requires 24 hours to be displayed on the Navitimer so that it is redundant with the on-board clock – for obvious reasons it shows the time in what Americans call “Military Time” and what we Europeans call “Time”. If onboard timekeeping is interrupted, the watch will still display the time in a manner that allows seamless communication with mission control.

At the launch of the new Navitimer Cosmonaute, astronaut and Breitling Pioneer Squad member Scott Kelly candidly shared a detail. The time between the consignment of the watch and its delivery by the watchmaker under the direction of Willy Breitling was tight. Carpenter’s daughter, Kris Stoever, recalled that on March 15, the first flight was assigned, and the request to Breitling was still on NASA’s letterhead in March. Due to time constraints, the request was only submitted to Breitling shortly before the flight, sometime in May. Breitling — a company dabbled in aviation watches (Navitimer had been around for 10 years at the time) — complied quickly and excitedly and sent the watches (essentially prototypes) in haste. Scott Carpenter loves his new watch so much, as his daughter said at the launch,

That’s true even if Carpenter’s first 24-hour Navitimer Cosmonaute lived a brilliant but short life.

After returning to Earth, the watch was exposed to seawater while Carpenter floated somewhere in the ocean waiting to be recovered from his capsule. The automatic return system designed to guide him to a specific location failed on the way back, and Carpenter is now using manual controls, over 250 nautical miles (450 kilometers) – considering he was descending at 7.9 kilometers per second at some point, Not bad. For a full 49 minutes, the rescue team didn’t know where the capsule and Carpenter were. With the system not working properly, the capsule capsized on landing and the astronauts were forced to escape and make a U-turn. During this process, watches exposed to salty sea water, especially their dials and movements, were severely corroded. It has been the private collection of the Breitling family for 60 years and has just been revealed, for the first time since a journey into space – and into the ocean. Carpenter saw the damage and sent the watch back to Breitling, who sent him a brand new watch, which is still owned by the Carpenter family today.

But wait, why not the first watch to go into space? Well, this was more of a space race issue than a simple watchmaker issue: the lesser known Russian “Strela” held the distinction, but pilots and space pioneers in the western world didn’t end up wearing them universally, so We are here.

A few more words about the first Swiss watch to go into space. Breitling recalls: “On May 24, 1962, five hours after launch, the Aurora 7 capsule carrying Carpenter landed safely in the Atlantic Ocean. The recovery operation lasted three hours and prolonged exposure to seawater caused Carpenter’s Cosmonaute Damage beyond repair. Breitling promptly replaced Carpenter’s watch, but that worn, corroded piece of space history remains in the Breitling family archives – unrestored and widely known. That is, to this day.”

Interestingly, 60 years on, the Navitimer, including every piece in the recently overhauled collection (hands-on here), is still largely unsuitable for water exposure. Breitling was candid about telling us at the time that the rotating bezel made a major effort to be water resistant, but because of the way it had to interact with the inner flange ring, water resistance could only be achieved by significantly increasing the thickness – that’s not Breitling Hope this pilot watch is the way to go. So, Navitimer, including this Breitling Navitimer Astronaut 2022 Limited Edition.

So no, neither the Navitimer nor the Navitimer Cosmonaute has turned into a water-resistant chronograph – if you want one of these, get a Chronomat, Superocean Heritage, Avenger, Premier or Endurance Pro – pretty much any other Breitling. But if you want a watch with a rotating slide rule and want it to be called a Navitimer, you’re better off wearing a pilot suit instead of a wetsuit, which is fine.

Thankfully, the new model, PB02301A1B1P1 (or PB02301A1B1A1 if you want to use it on a bracelet) isn’t just another reissue of the Cosmonaute – it’s definitely a luxury take on one of the earliest known dedicated watches Way Astronaut, a watch that pays homage to its fans with a hand-wound 24-hour display movement and chronograph, stainless steel case and platinum bezel (a tribute to Mandelbaum). Of course, a far cry from refereeing in terms of material and movement. The 809 worn by John Glenn in his groundbreaking Earth orbit in 1962, but just as strong in its proper, pure astronaut vibe.

The case of the new Breitling Navi Chronograph Astronaut Limited Edition measures 41mm and is just 13mm thick – thanks to the hand-wound-only B02 movement, which does away with the automatic winding system it was based on, the B01. The impressive combination of power reserve and frequency retention of 70 hours and 4 Hz, column wheel and vertical clutch – all four cornerstones of modern chronograph movements – are also here. With lugs measuring 47.09mm, the Navitimer Cosmonaute fits beautifully not only with the original, but with the changing trends in the larger watch trend.

On the wrist, the Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute made me come up with an alternative space-themed term for “tabletop diving,” a phrase, if you’re new to watches, for those of us who wear over-engineered dives Table people come to the office, but it never works out as intended. Am I a desk freak (I’m sorry) rocking a 24 hour dial and didn’t you know that Scott Carpenter asked for his space mission? I have no idea. All I know is that if I’m in the market for a Navitimer, I’d really like to try and buy one of the 362 pieces of the brand new Navitimer Cosmonaute Limited Edition. Its rarity and platinum bezel are very alluring. On the other hand, there are some dazzlingly beautiful new renditions of the “regular” and very fresh Navitimer, which costs a lot less — $1,800 — and is probably easier to read than the somewhat cramped and busy 24-hour dial. 41mm watch.

zelin0802 / November 23, 2022

Gorgeous GMT-Breitling Mechanical Chronograph Series Two Time Watches

Breitling’s Chronomat mechanical chronograph series was re-launched in 2020. The models are available in both feminine lady and sister sizes as small as 32 mm, and steel straight male sizes as large as 44 mm, but the only thing missing is the regular watch between 36 and 42 mm. size. It is typical to only care about two ends, regardless of the moment. Faced with such an important series, Breitling realized the existence of the problem, so last month it launched a 38mm diamond-encrusted model and a 40mm two-time model. Let’s talk about this 40mm two-time model. local time.

This time, Breitling chose to use the dual time function to match the 40mm size. I think it is very wise. As a loyal fan of the dual time function, I said in the previous program that the function of the mechanical watch is really usable today. In addition to the calendar, the most useful and practical function is the time of the two places. This dual-time Breitling specially provides five dial colors for it. Among the five colors, only this green dial in my hand can highlight the bright red 24-hour hand, which not only enhances the readability, but also implication. Excellent, the so-called bright red and bright green, go everywhere in the world.

Compared with the ultimate tough guy appearance of the super chronograph, this dual time Breitling fake has chosen elegance, comfort and sport. This can be immediately appreciated from its thickness of 11.77 mm. This strap is not only comfortable to wear, but the onion crown and needle bearing bracelet unique to the mechanical chronograph series are more refined with the size of 40 mm. In addition, its 200-meter waterproof performance and one-way rotating diving scale circle are also convenient for everyone to play in the water at any time when traveling around. Of course, I hope that the super version can be launched in the two places in the future. The so-called super version is to replace the vulnerable parts of the case with ceramic parts, such as the 38mm version launched with it this time.

This watch uses the Breitling Caliber 32 GMT movement, which is improved and modified from the stable ETA 2893-2 movement. It has a power reserve of 42 hours. Although I will not doubt the durability and precision of this movement nature, but I really want to complain about the dual-time function of this movement. According to the conventional logic of the dual-time function, the 24-hour pointer displays the home time, which is convenient for users to know exactly what time it is in the morning or afternoon at home. The hour hand displays the destination time, which is convenient for the user to quickly adjust the main hour hand to synchronize with the local time without stopping the watch after arriving at the destination.

But this watch is reversed, the crown is pulled out to the first gear, the 24-hour hand is turned clockwise, the calendar is adjusted counterclockwise, and the second gear is to stop the seconds and adjust the time. If you use it backwards, you will not be able to see the main hour hand intuitively when you read the time locally, and you will not be able to quickly know whether it is morning or afternoon at home. Although this feature is not so easy to use, it is better than nothing after all. Let me finally conclude that Breitling’s mechanical chronograph has outstanding appearance, excellent texture, dexterous body, practical functions and stable performance. It is an excellent commuter travel replica watches price.

zelin0802 / November 21, 2022

Richard Mille presents a new gray cermet in the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT

Long ago, Richard Mille earned his place among companies introducing new avant-garde materials into watchmaking – from ceramic to forged carbon to quartz TPT and more. By using its new exclusive gray cermet material in the new RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT, the automotive and aerospace-influenced brand further underscores its status as a materials innovator.

Like Richard Mille’s ultracomplications, the RM 11-05 packs many functions into its 50mm x 42.7mm tonneau-shaped case, all driven by its skeletonized self-winding movement: flyback at 6 o’clock and Chronograph counter at 9 o’clock; GMT display with luminous hands, easily adjustable via push button (located on case at 9 o’clock); Annual calendar with semi-instantaneous large date at 12 o’clock, And the month is displayed in Arabic numerals on the scale at 5 o’clock. Operated by stylishly designed pushers between 1 and 2 o’clock and 4 and 5 o’clock, this chronograph also includes a countdown mode that uses a skeletonized disc with 60-minute markers instead of hands so the user can read The number of minutes elapsed and the number of minutes remaining.

The warm gray color of the cermet case comes from a mixture of metal zirconium and high-performance ceramic inserts, heated and pressed together to form a homogeneous whole, in particular excluding elements such as nickel and cobalt – usually used for such hard materials, But it is considered a “bad glue” for fake Richard Mille‘s partner, microtechnology company IMI Group, to comply with Europe’s REACH chemical safety standard. The gray cermet, which is less dense than titanium and has a hardness of 2,360 Vickers – almost equal to diamond’s 2,400 Vickers hardness – is the result of a process called “flash sintering,” which combines a series of powerful Pulse added to the classic hot stamping process. The substance is used in ballistics, aerospace airframe components and brakes on racing vehicles,

Richard Mille’s Caliber RMAC3 movement, visible behind a barrel-shaped sapphire window on the case back, features all the technological advancements the brand is known for, including a skeletonized baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium; variable geometry rotor, which allows the mainspring to be wound according to the user’s activity level; a 50-hour power reserve stored in twin barrels for longer-lasting performance; and titanium spline screws (also used to assemble the case) for more Good torque control.

Manufacturer: Richard Mille
Reference number: RM11-05
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph with flyback and countdown, annual calendar with incorrect date and month display, GMT
Movement: Caliber RMAC3, self-winding, skeletonized, baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium, wet-blasted and PVD treated, chamfered and hand-polished, polished pivots, diamond-polished sink, bevelled wheels, 68 jewels , 28,800 vph, 50-hour power reserve
Case: Carbon TPT case, grade 5 titanium caseback, gray cermet bezel; grade 5 titanium crown; anti-glare sapphire crystal, water resistant to 50 meters
Bracelet and Clasp: Rubber Strap
Dimensions: Diameter = 50mm x 42.7mm, Height = 16.15mm

It’s hard to believe that such a popular watch comes from a company that was almost founded in the days of Swiss watchmaking. Founded by French businessman Richard Mille in 1999, Richard Mille SA did not sell its first watch until 2001! How they manage to compete with the more established high-end Swiss brands that have been in business for over 100 years is a truly monumental feat.

RM11 design
The RM11 is a true heavyweight watch that looks impressive on the wrist. As Eric describes it, “This watch is a total bully.” As a result, anyone wearing this behemoth from Richard Mille is sure to be delighted with the intense, radiant “watch game” (which has to be Eric’s most One of my favorite buzzwords) stands out. Despite its impressive size, this Richard Mille timepiece is extremely comfortable thanks to its curved design. To quote Eric…

“It has a square Tonneau design that fits very comfortably on the wrist. You can see it has a curved back. Once it’s on the wrist, it feels like a glove.”
The RM 11 model is named after the Brazilian Formula 1 driver who was also a personal friend of the company founder. No wonder this chronograph was designed to look like a complicated F1 car. As Eric explained…

“They’ve had this slogan for years that says ‘racing machine on your wrist.'” copy watch

zelin0802 / November 12, 2022

Zenith, Kari Voutilainen and Phillips unveil the unique Calibre 135-O with salmon dial and niobium case

When the Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire Limited Edition, launched in collaboration with Kari Voutilainen, was released earlier this year, almost all watch lovers were excited. At the time of the announcement, we saw a preview of a set of ten platinum and black-finish sterling silver dials and an additional eleventh watch to be auctioned by Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo. Well, now we’ve seen the eleventh watch, and it’s a unique one with a salmon dial and a niobium case.

Niobium, a diamagnetic alloy as hard as titanium, is often used in movement components, but rarely in constructing entire cases. I believe Cartier made an astronomical tourbillon using a niobium titanium case, but other than being a rare and unremarkable example, it’s one I’ve never actually dealt with. WatchTime Editor-in-Chief Roger Ruegger has a great hands-on story about these Zenith x Kari Voutilainen watches, the platinum models that were originally announced, which you can read here if you’re not familiar with the whole thing. In short, the historic Calibre 135-O is a movement designed for chronograph prizes, produced between 1949 and 1962. Kari Voutilainen and his team restored and completed 11 of these movements, which are now used in these Zenith Caliber 135 Chronometer Limited Edition watches.

Just like the platinum version, this unique piece of niobium will be housed in a case that is 38mm wide and 10.35mm thick. The 925 sterling silver dial, finished in the Comblémine atelier in Voutilainen, features a salmon-matte finish with a delicate guilloché pattern on the bezel. This limited edition Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire in collaboration with Kari Voutilainen and Phillips (ref. 13.1350.135/35.C100) will be auctioned on November 5, with all proceeds going to the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Research Foundation. I know I’ll be watching these closely.

zelin0802 / November 9, 2022

What kind of watch can I wear while driving a supercar?

What does the word “avant-garde” stand for? Roger Dubuis must have a good answer. As a synonym for “unique and distinctive”. Roger Dubuis luxury has been presenting us with a wide range of fashion masterpieces with outstanding designs since its inception. Among them, there are many cooperation models of famous cars, which have become a unique existence in the watchmaking industry with their unruly and subversive designs. Today, we will appreciate a Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini collaboration watch – Excalibur Huracán watch. Now, come and enjoy the details of the watch with me: (watch model: RDDBEX0829)

Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini have been cooperating since 2017 and have launched a lot of cooperation models. The Excalibur Huracán watch above is inspired by Lamborghini’s Huracán (“Calf”). The oscillating weight that resembles the rim and the movement originating from the pull rod in the engine room of the supercar are in this square-inch timepiece. Perfectly displayed.

This Excalibur Huracán watch is made of black DLC-coated titanium alloy, which is not only light in texture, but its dull black appearance gives the watch a domineering and handsome charm. The case and bezel are made of this material, and the bezel is also equipped with the iconic triangular pit pattern of the King series, which is highly recognizable.

The crown resembles the shape of a super sports car wheel nut. All details are inspired by sports car elements. The fashion watch is equipped with a rubber strap, which is lined with Alcantara® Alcantara material.

The bottom of the watch also adopts a back-through design. Through the bottom cover, we can clearly appreciate many supercar elements: the oscillating weight is designed to imitate the rim of a supercar, and the RD630 movement inside it is Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini. The second movement jointly developed by the sports department, the upper plywood of the movement comes from the “engine room lever” design of the V10 engine of the Huracán supercar. At the same time, this movement is equipped with a double barrel, which can provide the watch with 60 hours of power reserve.

To sum up, the design of this all-black Excalibur Huracán watch is very good. Not only does the overall shape give a strong sense of impact, but its details perfectly integrate the design elements of supercars, interpreting the car in its unique way. A fusion of aesthetics, timepieces and supercars.

zelin0802 / November 8, 2022

Urwerk Introduces Limited Edition UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey Watch

Boutique Haute Horlogerie Urwerk has been at the forefront of futuristic mechanical watchmaking for 25 years, and during its 25 years of existence, the brand has created a range of truly otherworldly models. Its latest design concept, the UR-112 Aggregat, first released in 2021, is undoubtedly the wildest one, with a wedge-shaped overall shape, a rotating barrel instead of a traditional pointer, and a driveshaft and differential system in the mainspring and mainspring. move torque between. Its four independent monitors. While the grey-black two-tone matte titanium case of the original UR-112 Aggregat accentuates the rugged and futuristic form of the design, for the first major release in 2022, Urwerk returns to this with a noticeably brighter interpretation. concept. The limited edition Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey mixes exposed stainless steel and titanium surfaces to give this radical asymmetrical design a sharper, more striking character without losing any of its technical boldness.

While the 42mm wide, 51mm long and 16mm thick case of the Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey is the same shape as the original UR-112 Aggregat, this version’s new finish drastically changes how that design looks in the image personality. In its original matte black and grey exterior, this wedge-shaped, sloping groove form is reminiscent of a piece of purposeful futuristic military gear, but the switch to a mix of titanium and stainless steel elements accentuates what the case hides Complexity. The rounded chamfers run the length of the case sides, the streamlined grooves, and the stylized “hood scoop” on the technically very unorthodox Hunter caseback, which is rich in polished, sandblasted and textured elements , which can be visually broken and brushed along the broad plane of the shell body. By using two different metals, Urwerk has maintained the two-tone look for the UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey, but the end result is more layered than its predecessor’s warm gray and black. Interestingly, however, the UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey’s water resistance rating drops to a paltry 30 meters, while the original model offered a sporty 100-meter rating. swiss watch replica

Strictly speaking, the Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey has no dial. The standard chronograph functions are handled by a pair of rotating components at 6 o’clock, taking the brand’s iconic satellite hour complication in a new, more complicated direction. Both the hour and minute displays use a set of black rotating prisms inscribed with sharp Arabic numerals, which can both rotate and revolve around a central point to display the current time in combination with a fixed indicator line. While the concept is puzzlingly complex in theory, in the image, the display is immediately intuitive and easy to read, especially due to its time-jumping mechanism. Urwerk placed two additional subdials directly on top of the movement under the Hunter caseback. The first of these is the digital running seconds display, highlighted on a perlage movement plate with a striking red anodized window. To the left of this display is a neat graphical power-reserve indicator sub-dial. Compared to the out-of-the-box design approach other monitors take, this final sub-dial is very traditional, but fits nicely into the divider design in the initial image.

Like its predecessor, the Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey uses the brand’s wild in-house UR-13.01 automatic movement. To power the watch’s unique planetary hour and minute displays at 6 o’clock, these elements are connected to the main gear train via an automotive-style drivetrain, including a longitudinal titanium driveshaft connected to the differential. In addition to the unique layout, this striking design uses an energy recovery mechanism to extract torque from the rotating components displayed on the planetary minutes. These systems enable this complex, heavy and power-hungry movement to manage a respectable 48-hour power reserve at a beat rate of 28,800 bph. Urwerk paired the UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey with a tapered black textile strap.

The new limited edition Urwerk UR-112 Aggregat Odyssey features new, more sophisticated finishes and a brighter overall look, bringing more sophistication and striking features to its most outlandish concept to date. While Urwerk didn’t specify how many models will be produced, given the size of the previous model’s version, total production is likely to be around 25 units. best watches replica