zelin0802 / December 13, 2022

2022 Luxury Watch Guide

Welcome to our annual luxury cheap Watch Guide, where we take a closer look at the making of some of the world’s finest watches – from astonishing creativity to astonishing technical advancements and stunning aesthetics. Similar to the supercar and hypercar industry, the watchmaking industry tests the skills of the best mechanics, challenging them to ever higher standards.

In automobiles, especially racing, engineers work side by side with mechanics to shave hundredths of a second off race times. In the world of horology, engineers, scientists, master watchmakers and master craftsmen work side by side to find solutions to challenging problems—sometimes taking years to achieve their goals. In watchmaking, top brands compete for the top spot as they set records and accomplish achievements never before seen in the industry. They turn to fields such as aerospace and automotive for new high-tech materials, new methods, new designs and new solutions. Click on the link below to view our curated list of luxury watches.

Chronograph

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter
The Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter is exactly what you’d expect from a brand that has cleverly incorporated instrumentation into its timepieces, measuring more than just lap times. The brightly colored watch features five different measurement scales, including three tachymeter scales, a pulsometer scale, and a respiration gauge to measure the number of breaths per hour. Powered by an automatic movement, the 42mm black ceramic case and black dial are the perfect backdrop for the concentric circles.

Louis Monet game time
Called the inventor of the chronograph by Guinness World Records, Louis Moinet has created some of the most advanced and fascinating chronographs. The Time to Race Automatic Mechanical Watch in titanium is designed to evoke the time of the gentleman racer. Collectors can choose a one- or two-digit number as their lucky number, which serves as the backdrop for the dial’s hour and minute hands at 6 o’clock. This skeletonized watch showcases the chronograph mechanism on the dial side, so when the pusher is activated, the mechanism comes to life. The watch has a tachymeter scale and a Racing Green rubber strap.

IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Woodland Edition
IWC Schaffhausen has long been associated with aviation and pilot watches. In fact, the brand was the first to implement inner iron cases in the 1930s, providing antimagnetic watches for pilots. Now, the brand is taking its Top Gun Pilot watch to new heights with a Woodland Green Ceramic Edition. (Yes, it has a longstanding relationship with the elite fighter pilot school.) This mechanical automatic watch boasts chronograph functions, small seconds and a coveted soft inner iron case.

tourbillon

Angelus Gold Carbon Fiber Flying Tourbillon
Swiss watch brand Angelus is renowned for its skeletonized timepieces featuring advanced mechanics and high standards of elegance. This Gold & Carbon Flying Tourbillon combines high-tech carbon materials with precious 18-carat rose gold for an avant-garde, almost sporty look. 5N rose gold case in ultra-light carbon composite with a mix of matte and polished finishes. The 18-karat gold bridges are in stark contrast to the black carbon motherboard. The hand-wound mechanical movement features a flying tourbillon escapement visible with a large aperture at 6 o’clock.

Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon Curvex CX
Since its founding in 1992, Swiss watch brand Franck Muller has been synonymous with exceptional design. The tonneau-shaped Curvex case is the brand’s signature and the case of choice for some of the most advanced complications. The Grand Central Tourbillon is housed in a large Curvex CX, ergonomically designed for comfort. An oversized aperture in the center of the dial reveals the ever-rotating tourbillon. Thanks to the innovative movement structure, the hour and minute hands are neatly placed around the tourbillon cage. It is available in a variety of colors.

Purnell Escape II Marcell Jacobs Edition
Independent Swiss watch brand Purnell made its debut two years ago to sensationalism, quickly attracting the attention of watch collectors around the world. The brand offers a unique feature dubbed the “World’s Fastest Dual Tri-Axis Tourbillon”. That’s not a pun. The Double Spherion timepiece features two tourbillon escapements in a circular frame; each has three axes that rotate within each other at different speeds for optimum precision. For this edition, the brand teamed up with Marcell Jacobs, European Championship winner and record holder for the fastest men’s race in Europe. Crafted in 18-carat white gold, this 48mm watch is set with 304 round brilliant-cut diamonds and additional baguette-cut diamonds.

Grande Seiko Kudo Constant Force Tourbillon
Japanese watch brand Grand Seiko is like a sleeping giant to the US market, having only been allowed to sell stateside a few years ago. Since crossing the big pond, it has captured the hearts of watch lovers with its complex movement and charming aesthetics. This platinum hard titanium case Kudo (meaning “heartbeat” in Japanese) is no exception. It is fitted with a constant force tourbillon, which means power is released in a constant, even flow for precise isochronism. Not an easy task, this watch combines a constant force mechanism and a tourbillon on one axis – something unprecedented in watchmaking.

Chopard LUC Full Strike Tourbillon
When a watch brand combines several top-level complications into a single watch, it is called a grand complication. This is the case with the recently launched Chopard LUC Full Strike Tourbillon, which, as its name suggests, also combines a minute repeater with a patented one-minute tourbillon regulator and a patented single-piece pallet lever. Sound complicated? This is. Exactly 568 micromechanical parts, including the integrated sapphire crystal and striking gongs, are harmoniously and precisely assembled.

Breguet Tradition Tourbillon 7047
The brand’s founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, invented the tourbillon escapement, and this Tradition Tourbillon is anything but traditional. Instead of a main dial, the watch showcases most of its mechanisms on its “dial” side, including the fusée-and-chain tourbillon. Regardless of the winding level, the fusée and chain mechanism provides a constant torque, thus optimizing the isochronism of the watch. Crafted in platinum, the 41mm watch is the ideal home for the 542-piece movement. Breguet uses high-tech materials such as silicon on some movement parts.

Calendar and Astronomy

Jacob & Co. Astronomical Clarity
The Jacob & Co. Astronomia watch is a magnificent mechanical and aesthetic feat of art and watchmaking. The 50mm Astronomia Clarity watch features an 18ct rose gold and transparent sapphire case. This provides a three-dimensional display view of a constantly rotating lacquered magnesium Earth, opposite a rotating sun, created using Jacob-cut diamonds with 288 facets. The hand-wound movement has an impressive 365 parts. The dial side displays the brand’s gravity three-axis tourbillon, whose three elements rotate at different speeds. The movement of the watch is like a choreographed dance.

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar
The latest DB25 Perpetual Calendar from Swiss indie brand De Bethune showcases the moon and stars at 12 o’clock in a bright blue circular display. The moon is a sphere rotating inside a blue outer circle. It is harmoniously opposed to the date display in the subdial at 6 o’clock, which also indicates leap years. Day of the week and month are indicated through apertures at 3 and 9 o’clock. Measuring 40 mm in diameter, this mechanical watch is made of grade 5 titanium and features a transparent sapphire case back.

Glashütte Original PanoMatic Calendar
German watch brand Glashütte Original presents the PanoMatic Calendar watch in 5N 18 carat rose gold. Equipped with the brand new Caliber 92-09 self-winding movement, it displays hours, minutes, small seconds, moon phases, annual calendar with panoramic date and retrograde month display (3 o’clock to 6 o’clock on the dial), and runs until 12 o’clock Then jump back on the outer ring at 1 o’clock). The watch is so precise that the date display only needs to be adjusted once a year, on March 1st, followed by the short month of February. It has a sapphire crystal glass to view the exquisite movement.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Artistica Caliber 945
Jaeger-LeCoultre, a brand deeply rooted in history and watchmaking tradition, presents a mechanical timepiece this year featuring the Stellar Odyssey, beautifully depicting astronomy in all its glory on the wrist. The Grand Complication Caliber 945 offers a star chart with celestial bodies, a zodiac calendar, a minute repeater and a celestial flying tourbillon, which Jaeger-LeCoultre called the Cosmotourbillon. It combines not only some of the most difficult watchmaking feats, but also some of the most advanced craft illustrations.

HYT MoonRunner Supernova Blue
Relatively young, independent Swiss watch brand HYT re-entered the world of watches with a bold mandate, building on its unique craftsmanship of telling time using fluids and tapping into its love of astronomy. This 50mm black titanium watch features a hand-wound movement that indicates the hours, minutes, day of the week, month and moon phases as well as a retrograde hour display. The moon takes center stage in this watch, with surrounding rings indicating the day and month.

Bovet Recital 20 Asterium
Crafted in 18 karat gold, this exquisite Bovet 1822 is a unique timepiece that depicts the sky as seen from Earth and displays hours, retrograde minutes, seconds, day of the week, date, month, year and moon phases, as well as functions such as tourbillon escapement (at 6 o’clock), day/night solstice indicator, time difference and astrological zodiac display. The central sky map features stars and constellations laser-engraved on translucent blue quartz and filled with Super-LumiNova to glow in the dark. This extremely complex watch is equipped with a movement composed of 771 huge parts, has a patented double-sided tourbillon, and more.

space age

Ulysse Nardin Freak S
Few watches have quite the space-age look of the latest Ulysse Nardin Freak S, with its central time indicator resembling a spaceship. Crafted from 18-karat rose gold, titanium and ceramic, this high-tech self-winding watch features a silicon escapement to ensure durability and require no oiling or servicing. It is equipped with a tourbillon and special escapement with two oscillators, a differential and a proprietary grinder. The entire movement makes one revolution in the center of the dial every hour. There is no crown, and the time is set by rotating the bezel.

Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convex
While some watches put the moon or the sun at the center, the GMT Balancier Convexe puts the earth in the spotlight with its 423-part movement. This mechanical artwork rotates with a round hand-painted titanium sphere and includes a GMT function to show the time in another zone; the world’s 24 major time zone cities are listed on the case back. The balance wheel is sloped for added precision and the case is raised to fit ergonomically on the wrist.

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross
Blending a high-tech look with graphic geometric patterns and brilliant mechanics, the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross embodies the vision of the multidisciplinary artist who collaborated with Hublot to develop the piece. As a Hublot brand ambassador, Ross was inspired by sculptures he created for Hublot a few years ago. The watch features a titanium honeycomb mesh and a hexagonal interpretation of the Big Bang for an industrial look. The watch is powered by a 282-part movement.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach
Crafted from ultra-high-tech mineral composite fibre, this 47mm watch pays homage to the brand’s partnership with Lamborghini. The Hyper-watch has a unique movement designed to be reminiscent of the supercar engine of the Lamborghini Squadra Corse. It features a V-shaped hole that reveals the double flying tourbillon escapement angled at 90 degrees to ensure more precise timekeeping. The design of the RD112 movement is patented.

MB&F Legacy Machine Sequential EVO
The independent Swiss brand is a leader in 3D watchmaking, beloved for its often imitated cases of spaceships, animals and other objects. Plus, the mechanics are always on the cutting edge. The brand’s first chronograph was a hand-wound dual chronograph with a case in zirconium metal. The watch offers chronograph, split-seconds chronograph, lap timer and cumulative timing modes, and is equipped with a proprietary ‘FlexRing’ shockproof system.

zelin0802 / December 12, 2022

Christmas gift guide 2022: Exclusive timepieces for that special someone

Thinking of gifting a unique timepiece to your loved one? Choosing the perfect watch may not be easy, but you can’t go wrong with these unique luxury timepieces.

Read on for our top picks for the perfect timepiece gift this Christmas (one watch might not be enough).

Jacob & Co. X Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon

The idea behind the Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon began with the idea of how to recreate the visceral feel of the iconic Bugatti W16 engine in a timepiece?

After a full year of development, the team has answered that question in the form of the Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon, a timepiece that pays homage to the car. First, the incredible flying tourbillon movement is a completely clean design. Jacob & Co. has been working with its movement suppliers for over a year to realize this spectacular creation. Inspired by the Chiron’s sleek lines and movement, or “engine block,” the case is designed to replicate a Bugatti engine, placed under a massive sapphire crystal for all to see.

The watch’s most striking action is when the wearer presses the crown on the right side of the timepiece, and the engine kicks in—the crankshaft turns and the pistons pump up and down, mimicking a real internal combustion engine. Two “turbochargers” on one side of the engine block (there are four in the actual Chiron engine) spin when the engine is running, adding to the visual impact. The crankshaft that drives it is just one of 578 parts and is one of the smallest and most complex watch parts ever built, made from a solid single piece of steel. The pistons themselves are difficult to manufacture, and they are mounted on the crankshaft at different angles for maximum effect. Forming the engine block are two “exhaust” ducts, further evidence of the design’s engine theme.

The groundbreaking Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon is also available in 18K rose gold – a real engine and an exclusive piece on the wrist.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

Created exclusively for the 50th anniversary of the Cortina watch, TAG Heuer has launched a limited edition of 10 TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Cortina watches, inspired by the unique aesthetic ten years ago that first made the original The Carrera became a favorite track for on-and-off serious racing pilots.

Retaining the silhouette of the original Carrera, including the iconic lugs and buttons, it is now enlarged to a modern 42mm and housed in a solid gold case for an added touch of luxury. The hour and minute hands are polished in 18K 3N yellow gold and coated with Super-LumiNova to ensure optimum readability even in the darkest of nights. Beneath the domed sapphire crystal, the clearly visible dial features an elegant tri-compax layout in a new style, but in a lush shade of green. Although rarely known for using gemstones as dial materials, TAG Heuer decided to go the unorthodox route and use albite emerald (also known as maw setting) for the dial.

This bold move is a refreshing update to the Carrera collection and a tribute to Jack Heuer’s original 1963 design, retaining its finely balanced design, including the slim bezel, sloping lugs, classic pump design buttons , as well as a simple small seconds at 6 o’clock and a low-key date window.

Corum Admiral 45 Tourbillion

Corum Corum specially launches the Admiral 45 Tourbillon watch, limited to 10 pieces worldwide, this is a 45mm timepiece specially created for the 50th anniversary of Cortina Watch. Due to the limited number of individual models produced, no two of the iconic dodecagonal Admiral case are identical, a random result of the combination of undulating layers of carbon composite material with 18K gold. Each watch is thus unique, thanks to cutting-edge materials that further enhance the already striking gold elements, and the purity of the pure black sunray-finish dial, evoking and reflecting the wonder and mystery of the starry night sky – — a magical sight under the moonlight.

This watch is particularly noteworthy for its closed dial, which is unusual for Corum as their tourbillon watches usually have skeletonized dials. Uncommon on Corum watches, the sunray-finish dial has a subtle iridescence that exudes a magnetic aura and features a sunray-finish anthracite dial with a tourbillon aperture at 6 o’clock. Corum’s signature ‘upright key’ emblem, which alludes to the fortitude and perseverance required to master the craft of horology and watchmaking, has been painstakingly hand-set for added dimension and finesse for a finishing touch.

zelin0802 / December 8, 2022

Ice, Ice Baby: A glimpse at Jacob & Co.’s brightest timepieces

Jacob Arabo’s eponymous label is forging a clear path to horological legitimacy.

I’ve struggled to put into words the impact fake Jacob & Co. has had on the haute horlogerie world. Because there really is no one in the industry quite like Jacob Arabo. Arabo came to New York from Russia at the age of 14. At 16, he began apprenticeship as a jeweler to help support his family. While making jewelry for other brands, he sold his creations as a sideline, then in New York, 1986.

His designs quickly caught the attention of singer Faith Evans, who turned her husband Notorious BIG on to Arabo’s work. Soon, he was known as “Jacob the Jeweler” in hip-hop lyrics. But it wasn’t just celebrities who attracted Jacob & Co.—collectors also took notice of his luxury timepieces, as Arabo specializes in highly complex timepieces with unconventional designs made from precious materials such as rare gemstones.

Arabo is a self-made man who approaches watchmaking the same way he picks out the best gems: with great technical dexterity and a certain respect for decadence. Some might say it’s overdone, but at the same time, there’s something dazzling about Jacob & Co.’s work. The following five timepieces perfectly embody this unconventional manufacturing method.

Jacob & Co 3-D Astronomia Minute Repeater Watch
Truly an otherworldly watch. 3-D Astronomia debuted at Baselworld in 2014 and has grown more brilliant and complex every year. This year, Jacob & Co. launched a minute repeater watch to raise funds for this extremely rare watch.

It features a carillon minute repeater with three gongs and hammers (instead of the usual two). The gongs are stacked vertically so that you can better see them in action through the side of the sapphire case. The chime chimes in the familiar Doh Re Mi tone to mark the hours, minutes and 15-minute intervals, and an innovative safety feature protects the mechanism by preventing the wearer from winding the watch when it strikes the time. Four arms radiating from the center support a three-axis tourbillon.

On ice, the 3-D Astronomia features 15.44-carat sapphires in two shades of blue, with baguette diamonds on the plate and case. The display also features a one-carat spherical diamond and a painted dial rotating globe. The coolest part? A flying astronaut spinning around the axis of the 3D Earth! replica tourbillon watches

zelin0802 / December 6, 2022

A Closer Look: Patek Philippe Ref. 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph

“Salmon” and steel.

While most of the buzz surrounding Patek Philippe’s recent releases has centered around the Nautilus ref. 5811/1G white gold, vintages aside from the Nautilus and Aquanaut are mostly about. One of the most striking new additions for 2022 is the World Time Flyback Chronograph ref. 5935A-001.

Continuing Patek Philippe’s steel watch developments beyond its traditional sports models, ref. 5935A is a fresh take on a model that debuted in 2016. Previously only precious metals (i.e. white gold or platinum) were offered, ref. The 5935A is the first stainless steel model and one of the brand’s few complex metal models. and referee. The 5935A is larger in diameter than its predecessor, but its most striking feature is the “rose gold-plated opal” (or “salmon”, if you prefer) dial.

The World Time in steel is significant because the World Time is arguably Patek Philippe’s signature watch. A selection of vintage models is one of the few reference models from Patek Philippe that can sell for seven or even eight figures.

awarded to the referee. 5935A adds a chronograph, but it still has the modern style of the iconic complication. referee. 5935A retains the familiar Louis Cottier-type world time display that is almost synonymous with Patek Philippe, but in modern materials and colors. The 41mm diameter is also larger than the usual size for Patek Philippe complications, giving it a sporty feel.

Naturally, for many, the dial is probably the biggest selling point of this watch. The pink hue, often called “salmon” or copper, is a trendy color at the moment—I’m a huge fan of the shade myself—and it’s perfect for this particular style.

For one thing, this color is usually only found in platinum watches or special editions. But lately Patek Philippe has been introducing the color to a wider range of models, including the ref. 5320G and ref. 5172 grams. Adding pops of color to these models is a shrewd way to increase their visibility and popularity, perhaps diverting attention away from the Nautilus and Aquanaut.

referee. Larger, lighter and louder than the average Patek complication watch, the 5935A is a compelling alternative for anyone who prefers world time or more general complications but wants a more casual and modern aesthetic .

Part of that is due to the steel case, ref. The 5935A is an entry model, at least by the benchmark of Patek Philippe complication watches. At just over $63,000, it’s not much of a value proposition—it’s rarely used to describe Patek Philippe anyway—but it’s one of the most affordable complications in the catalog, and one of the most interesting.

Stainless steel
If you are a watch lover who is familiar with cheap Patek Philippe, then you will know that complex watches with stainless steel cases are often very special. For example, the most expensive Patek Philippe ever made is stainless steel. Leaving aside the Nautilus and Aquanaut collections, Patek Philippe only has two steel complications, the ref. 5905/1A and this ref. 5935A.

Besides being rare, steel is a strong material and arguably more versatile from a visual standpoint, as it can be both casual and formal. Although larger than its predecessor, the ref. The 5935A is lighter due to the case material.

Despite being larger — it’s 41mm, compared to 39.5mm for the Platinum model — it doesn’t look or feel significantly larger. However, it stands out on the wrist thanks to the dial color, which also gives it the feel of a sporty everyday watch (though not exactly a sports watch).

Other than that, the case is the same as its precious metal counterpart. It’s fully polished and has the same “winglet” style lugs inspired by vintage refs. 2523 world time. The pushers on the case are the same: chronograph pushers at two and four o’clock, and a world time pusher at 10 o’clock.

While the case is of excellent quality, the finish is uniform. More variation in the case finish would make it more attractive, not least because the shape of the lugs lends itself to alternating surface finishes. This will also better differentiate it from the precious metal version.

About the case, the only thing I would definitely change is the strap, which feels lackluster relative to the look of the watch (and its price). The copy watch comes with a pair of straps in the same color, one in grained calfskin and the other in nubuck, but both feel a bit too thin for the case.

“Rose Gold Plated Opal…Carbon.”
Without a doubt, the highlight of the references. 5935A is the dial. Described by Patek Philippe as a “rose gold-plated opal,” the dial is decorated with a “carbon” pattern that first appeared on Calatrava ref. 6007A made to commemorate the inauguration of the brand’s new headquarters in Geneva. It’s this prominent pattern that gives the watch a casual vibe that complements the stainless steel case.

While Patek Philippe did not specify the nature of the motif, it appears to be stamped and extremely precise. Traditional, engraved guilloché would have been a bonus, but Patek Philippe only offers it in its top complications or rare handcrafts, all with watches priced in the six figures. The watch retails for just over $63,000, which makes it an approachable complication by Patek Philippe standards.

Notably, the central portion of the guilloché appears to be the same size as on the smaller reference. 5930P. Instead, the world time ring is larger to accommodate the enlarged case. Reference ratio. The 5935A is arguably better than its smaller cousin, as the urban disc feels cramped.

But the downside of keeping the central part the same size is the 30-minute register at 6 o’clock, which is still quite small. It’s sharp enough, but feels unnaturally small.

The rest of the dial is typical Patek Philippe, which is to say quite refined and detailed. The applied hour markers are solid gold but plated with a dark gray finish, as are the hands, while the brand name is on a plaque inserted into the dial just below 12 o’clock.

double complication
referee. The 5935A is a world time flyback chronograph, a novel but complementary combination of complications powered by the CH 28-520 HU that debuted in 2016 alongside ref.5935A. 5930G. Despite the unusual complication, the movement features signature Patek Philippe mechanical elements, namely the Gyromax balance wheel and the Spiromax hairspring in silicon.

The movement is made up of 343 individual parts – roughly double that of a normal chronograph – including the column wheel and the chronograph’s vertical clutch, while the world time mechanism is an additional module below the dial. By Patek Philippe standards, it is relatively compact and slim considering its functionality, measuring 34.5mm in diameter and 7.97mm in height.

In terms of trim, the CH 28-520 HU lives up to what you would expect from a current Patek Philippe. Its decoration is clean and thorough, though mostly by machine, with a few hand touches here and there – industrial haute horology, in other words.

Importantly, the decoration of the movement has improved significantly over time, reflecting the brand’s substantial progress in aesthetic sophistication. For example, the bevels of the bridges and counterbores are now mirror-polished and no longer have the milling marks visible on the ten-year-old caliber examples.

After spending some time with the referee. 5935A, it’s easy to see why this is one of the stars of the 2022 collection. For starters, it combines a pair of useful complications in a steel case — the material alone will appeal to some enthusiasts — and it looks good, too.

referee. The 5935A is undoubtedly an expensive watch by almost all benchmarks, but by Patek Philippe standards it is acceptable. Admittedly, availability will be zero in the short term, as with any new Patek Philippe model, but it will become more readily available in the near future, and as always, this will be a reference. The 5935A is a compelling proposition.

Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph
Ref. 5935A-001

Diameter: 41mm
Height: 12.75 mm
Material: stainless steel watch
Mirror: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 meters

Movement: Cal. CH 28-520 HU
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph and world time
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Chain: Automatic
Power Reserve: 50-55 hours

Strap: Calfskin with folding buckle, additional nubuck calfskin strap

zelin0802 / December 5, 2022

One More Wave x Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronometer Supports Disabled Surfing Veterans

Ulysse Nardin fake has teamed up with veterans nonprofit One More Wave to release its second dive watch, just in time for Veterans Day.

The Swiss watchmaker first partnered with One More Wave, a San Diego-based organization that makes custom surfboards for disabled veterans, in 2019 when they released the Diver Deep Dive OMW, and both partners have Ocean roots.

This latest watch – the limited edition Diver Chronometer OMW – designed by members of the One More Wave, is water resistant to 300 meters and features a black dial and a DLC titanium 44mm case with turquoise accents. The One More Wave trident logo – also in black and turquoise – is located in the center of the watch’s sapphire crystal case back.

“We would not be the organization we are today without the support of Ulysse Nardin,” said One More Wave founder and former US Navy SEAL Alex West.

Ulysse Nardin’s latest dive watch is to support veterans

The watch celebrates the brand’s partnership with One More Wave, a nonprofit that helps veterans use surf therapy.

Back in 2015, former U.S. Navy SEAL Alex West founded his registered nonprofit, One More Wave, to provide disabled veterans with a sense of community and purpose through the medium of surfing. Living in San Diego, CA, he and a small group of volunteers build surfboards to meet the physical and performance needs of individual veterinarians who can surf through five OMW centers across the country.

In 2019, nautical-focused watch brand Ulysse Nardin teamed up with One More Wave to launch a special edition contemporary Diver Deep Dive watch. This month, the partnership returns with a new iteration, officially named the Diver Chronometer 44m OMW, once again raising funds for One More Wave’s operations.

The new 300m diver’s watch is a certified chronometer, which in modern parlance means it has been rigorously tested for accuracy by the independent Swiss body COSC (Contrôle Officielle Suisse des Chronomètres). This level of technical precision is relatively rare among contemporary sports watches, making it an interesting proposition for serious collectors looking to make a big splash. Historically, UN efforts have focused on more accurate timekeeping. Since its founding in 1846, the company has manufactured marine timepieces for as many as 40 navies around the world, all with the high precision required to efficiently navigate the high seas. The COSC approval thus places this new version firmly in the brand’s long tradition in terms of functionality.

Where it breaks with convention, however, is in its aesthetics. While older Ulysse Nardin watches often echoed its nautical and nautical vintage style with plain white dials and Roman numerals, over the past 15 years the manufacturer has broken away from its traditional design language to create forward-thinking and sporty pieces . Following in the footsteps of these new additions, the Diver Chronometer 44m OMW features a matte black sandblasted titanium on gray rubber with turquoise accents in a case that is remarkably contemporary.

The new watch, limited to 100 pieces, is powered by the in-house Caliber UN 118 movement with hours, seconds, minutes, date and a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock. It also features a concave, inward-facing bezel, once a common fixture on professional dive fake luxury watches. At the same time, the logo of Athens Watch and One More Wave is engraved on the transparent sapphire case back.

zelin0802 / December 2, 2022

HYT

Hastroid Cosmic Hunter: The New Bronze Age

Across time and space, a new type of spaceship is relentlessly exploring the watchmaking galaxy in search of new and unique expressions of the art of watchmaking.

This fall, HYT Hastroid arrives in a warm and sensual hue in a bronze shell. An original variation to say the least, as it combines the futuristic nature of Hastroid with a material texture dating back to the most ancient times. Elegant and sophisticated, the new Hastroid Cosmic Hunter is the perfect complement to HYT’s bold approach.

depositary receipt

“What we have worked on is a masterful craft that combines fluid technology and mechanical sophistication,” said Davide Cerrato, CEO and creative director of HYT.

Hastroid, Retro Hunter Skin
This craftsmanship is clearly reflected in the bi-material case design of the new Hastroid Cosmic Hunter, which measures 48mm in diameter, 52.3mm in overall length and 17.2mm in case thickness. The originality of this piece lies in the combination of carbon and titanium, plated with a PVD bronze treatment and microbeaded finish. The benefit of this bronze electroplated finish is the vintage hunter look combined with the surprising lightness of the Hastroid.

For thousands of years, bronze has traditionally been an alloy of copper and tin, which has a color close to that of gold, but is often altered by oxidation. It is not uncommon for the bronze to turn black or take on a patina. To make its new Hastroid Cosmic Hunter timeless, HYT cheap decided to use a stable finish to keep the bronze color. By anchoring its beauty and lightness, using a resolutely modern approach, without any nostalgia or attempt to create an artificial retro effect, HYT is bringing bronze into a new futuristic era.

Offering a beautiful contrast, this variation of case color accentuates the optimal readability of the dial, with its beige numerals in state-of-the-art Lumicast® material, a three-dimensional Superluminova® application emphasizing brilliance, its matte black-treated hands, and of course There are also liquids that show time retrograde. This black liquid, within its ultra-fine borosilicate capillaries, is the strikingly unique feature of the mecafluidic timepieces designed by HYT.

“Mecafluidic technology is a new term in scientific research, used in luxury watchmaking. We have the ability to highlight the symbiotic nature of these two technologies (mechanical and fluidic),” said Davide Cerrato, CEO and Creative Director of HYT.

The Hastroid’s multi-layered middle case presents a subtle openwork, while the watch as a whole has a sandwich construction, is water resistant to 50 meters, and has a central protective titanium case for the movement that optimally handles the tasks assigned to this new spacecraft . Discount replica watches

Like the flight deck, the watch is topped by a domed sapphire crystal, allowing a mostly unobstructed view of the entire dial. Of course, the heart of the mecafluid mechanism remains the fluid system, with its two central “bellows” reservoirs, a design unique to HYT’s work, enhancing the character and sense of strength around the dial and the capillaries.

It is driven by a hand-wound mechanical movement, caliber 501 CM, beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and has a power reserve of 72 hours.

The movement was designed by Eric Coudray®, renowned master watchmaker and winner of the 2012 Prix Gaïa. With the assistance of PURTEC (part of the TEC Group) and his longtime friend and watchmaker Paul Clémenti (Gaïa 2018), the movement is elegantly satin-finished or laser-treated or sandblasted for a more refined look and finishes.

Underscoring the character of this modern haute horlogerie, the black rubber bracelet with green Alcantara® inlays has a military touch and embossed Corioform® design inspired by the spacesuits worn by astronauts.

Rare and original, the new Hastroid Cosmic Hunter (ref. H02756-A).

zelin0802 / November 30, 2022

Patek Philippe Launches Four New Grande Complications Watches

Since its founding in 1839, Patek Philippe fake has used gem-setting techniques to adorn its timepieces.

While diamonds may seem to complement the style of any watch, it’s important to remember that a factory-set timepiece has more meaning and value than an aftermarket example. It showcases the sheer talent and innovative approach of a pioneering brand built on precision and excellence. Since its founding in 1839, Patek Philippe’s luxury watchmakers have focused on adorning its collections of complex timepieces with gem-setting throughout their case designs. fashion replica watches

Patek Philippe is proud to continue its gem-setting art with four new popular and colorful models. The first collection to receive recognition is the Grandmaster Chime, which pays homage to the mechanical sophistication of this flagship model with the launch of two new Platinum versions. The second watch released in the new collection is the coveted perpetual calendar chronograph, which highlights the two jewelry versions of blue and red gemstones.

Reference 6300/400G
Case : 49.4 mm 18K white gold double-sided (409 diamonds)
Dial: Ebony black opal on time/calendar side
Movement: Caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM
Strap/clasp: black alligator leather/diamond-set folding clasp

Reference 6300/401G
Case : 49.4 mm 18K white gold double face watch (291 diamonds/118 sapphires)
Dial: Ebony black opal on time/calendar side
Movement: Caliber 300 GS AL 36‑750 QIS FUS IRM
Strap/clasp: black alligator leather/diamond-set folding clasp

Reference 5271/12P
Case : 41 mm platinum (80 rubies)
Dial: Lacquer red
Movement: Caliber CH 29‑535 PS Q
Strap/clasp: black alligator leather/diamond-set folding clasp

Reference 5271/11P
Case : 41 mm platinum (80 sapphires)
Dial: Lacquer blue
Movement: Caliber CH 29-535 PS Q
Strap/clasp: black alligator leather/diamond-set folding clasp

zelin0802 / November 28, 2022

The New Breitling Navitimer Astronaut and the Incredible Story Behind It

Not one, but two Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute watches have just been unveiled. First up is an actual 60s-year-old watch, on public display for the first time: the first Swiss wristwatch (wowzers) to go into space, a Navitimer specially modified by astronaut Scott Carpenter. Second, the new Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Astronaut Limited Edition – a little wordy – is a nod to Carpenter’s 24th Mercury-Atlas 7 mission worn by astronauts who orbited the Earth three times. A modern tribute to lap time wear. May 1962. Exactly 60 years ago.

As Breitling fans know, almost every year since Georges Kern took over as CEO, the Grenchen-based watchmaker has released a “heritage” edition watch , for pure fan service. Highly limited editions, this collection includes a reissue of the legendary Navitimer 806, as well as a trio of AVI 765 (a favorite of Breitling historian and consultant Fred Mandelbaum). This year, Breitling marks another important brand milestone around the 1962 Cosmonaute, the 60th anniversary of another legendary reference watch with two unique characteristics: First, it is recognized by Breitling collectors as the first Swiss watch in space. The Discount replica watches, and secondly, its unique 24-hour time display, was at the special request of Carpenter himself.

Why display 24 hours in space? On a 5-hour space mission?

That’s not to say he can track AM/PM times any more safely and conveniently. Space missions revolve around many complex elements, and redundancy is certainly one of them. Requires 24 hours to be displayed on the Navitimer so that it is redundant with the on-board clock – for obvious reasons it shows the time in what Americans call “Military Time” and what we Europeans call “Time”. If onboard timekeeping is interrupted, the watch will still display the time in a manner that allows seamless communication with mission control.

At the launch of the new Navitimer Cosmonaute, astronaut and Breitling Pioneer Squad member Scott Kelly candidly shared a detail. The time between the consignment of the watch and its delivery by the watchmaker under the direction of Willy Breitling was tight. Carpenter’s daughter, Kris Stoever, recalled that on March 15, the first flight was assigned, and the request to Breitling was still on NASA’s letterhead in March. Due to time constraints, the request was only submitted to Breitling shortly before the flight, sometime in May. Breitling — a company dabbled in aviation watches (Navitimer had been around for 10 years at the time) — complied quickly and excitedly and sent the watches (essentially prototypes) in haste. Scott Carpenter loves his new watch so much, as his daughter said at the launch,

That’s true even if Carpenter’s first 24-hour Navitimer Cosmonaute lived a brilliant but short life.

After returning to Earth, the watch was exposed to seawater while Carpenter floated somewhere in the ocean waiting to be recovered from his capsule. The automatic return system designed to guide him to a specific location failed on the way back, and Carpenter is now using manual controls, over 250 nautical miles (450 kilometers) – considering he was descending at 7.9 kilometers per second at some point, Not bad. For a full 49 minutes, the rescue team didn’t know where the capsule and Carpenter were. With the system not working properly, the capsule capsized on landing and the astronauts were forced to escape and make a U-turn. During this process, watches exposed to salty sea water, especially their dials and movements, were severely corroded. It has been the private collection of the Breitling family for 60 years and has just been revealed, for the first time since a journey into space – and into the ocean. Carpenter saw the damage and sent the watch back to Breitling, who sent him a brand new watch, which is still owned by the Carpenter family today.

But wait, why not the first watch to go into space? Well, this was more of a space race issue than a simple watchmaker issue: the lesser known Russian “Strela” held the distinction, but pilots and space pioneers in the western world didn’t end up wearing them universally, so We are here.

A few more words about the first Swiss watch to go into space. Breitling recalls: “On May 24, 1962, five hours after launch, the Aurora 7 capsule carrying Carpenter landed safely in the Atlantic Ocean. The recovery operation lasted three hours and prolonged exposure to seawater caused Carpenter’s Cosmonaute Damage beyond repair. Breitling promptly replaced Carpenter’s watch, but that worn, corroded piece of space history remains in the Breitling family archives – unrestored and widely known. That is, to this day.”

Interestingly, 60 years on, the Navitimer, including every piece in the recently overhauled collection (hands-on here), is still largely unsuitable for water exposure. Breitling was candid about telling us at the time that the rotating bezel made a major effort to be water resistant, but because of the way it had to interact with the inner flange ring, water resistance could only be achieved by significantly increasing the thickness – that’s not Breitling Hope this pilot watch is the way to go. So, Navitimer, including this Breitling Navitimer Astronaut 2022 Limited Edition.

So no, neither the Navitimer nor the Navitimer Cosmonaute has turned into a water-resistant chronograph – if you want one of these, get a Chronomat, Superocean Heritage, Avenger, Premier or Endurance Pro – pretty much any other Breitling. But if you want a watch with a rotating slide rule and want it to be called a Navitimer, you’re better off wearing a pilot suit instead of a wetsuit, which is fine.

Thankfully, the new model, PB02301A1B1P1 (or PB02301A1B1A1 if you want to use it on a bracelet) isn’t just another reissue of the Cosmonaute – it’s definitely a luxury take on one of the earliest known dedicated watches Way Astronaut, a watch that pays homage to its fans with a hand-wound 24-hour display movement and chronograph, stainless steel case and platinum bezel (a tribute to Mandelbaum). Of course, a far cry from refereeing in terms of material and movement. The 809 worn by John Glenn in his groundbreaking Earth orbit in 1962, but just as strong in its proper, pure astronaut vibe.

The case of the new Breitling Navi Chronograph Astronaut Limited Edition measures 41mm and is just 13mm thick – thanks to the hand-wound-only B02 movement, which does away with the automatic winding system it was based on, the B01. The impressive combination of power reserve and frequency retention of 70 hours and 4 Hz, column wheel and vertical clutch – all four cornerstones of modern chronograph movements – are also here. With lugs measuring 47.09mm, the Navitimer Cosmonaute fits beautifully not only with the original, but with the changing trends in the larger watch trend.

On the wrist, the Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute made me come up with an alternative space-themed term for “tabletop diving,” a phrase, if you’re new to watches, for those of us who wear over-engineered dives Table people come to the office, but it never works out as intended. Am I a desk freak (I’m sorry) rocking a 24 hour dial and didn’t you know that Scott Carpenter asked for his space mission? I have no idea. All I know is that if I’m in the market for a Navitimer, I’d really like to try and buy one of the 362 pieces of the brand new Navitimer Cosmonaute Limited Edition. Its rarity and platinum bezel are very alluring. On the other hand, there are some dazzlingly beautiful new renditions of the “regular” and very fresh Navitimer, which costs a lot less — $1,800 — and is probably easier to read than the somewhat cramped and busy 24-hour dial. 41mm watch.

zelin0802 / November 23, 2022

Gorgeous GMT-Breitling Mechanical Chronograph Series Two Time Watches

Breitling’s Chronomat mechanical chronograph series was re-launched in 2020. The models are available in both feminine lady and sister sizes as small as 32 mm, and steel straight male sizes as large as 44 mm, but the only thing missing is the regular watch between 36 and 42 mm. size. It is typical to only care about two ends, regardless of the moment. Faced with such an important series, Breitling realized the existence of the problem, so last month it launched a 38mm diamond-encrusted model and a 40mm two-time model. Let’s talk about this 40mm two-time model. local time.

This time, Breitling chose to use the dual time function to match the 40mm size. I think it is very wise. As a loyal fan of the dual time function, I said in the previous program that the function of the mechanical watch is really usable today. In addition to the calendar, the most useful and practical function is the time of the two places. This dual-time Breitling specially provides five dial colors for it. Among the five colors, only this green dial in my hand can highlight the bright red 24-hour hand, which not only enhances the readability, but also implication. Excellent, the so-called bright red and bright green, go everywhere in the world.

Compared with the ultimate tough guy appearance of the super chronograph, this dual time Breitling fake has chosen elegance, comfort and sport. This can be immediately appreciated from its thickness of 11.77 mm. This strap is not only comfortable to wear, but the onion crown and needle bearing bracelet unique to the mechanical chronograph series are more refined with the size of 40 mm. In addition, its 200-meter waterproof performance and one-way rotating diving scale circle are also convenient for everyone to play in the water at any time when traveling around. Of course, I hope that the super version can be launched in the two places in the future. The so-called super version is to replace the vulnerable parts of the case with ceramic parts, such as the 38mm version launched with it this time.

This watch uses the Breitling Caliber 32 GMT movement, which is improved and modified from the stable ETA 2893-2 movement. It has a power reserve of 42 hours. Although I will not doubt the durability and precision of this movement nature, but I really want to complain about the dual-time function of this movement. According to the conventional logic of the dual-time function, the 24-hour pointer displays the home time, which is convenient for users to know exactly what time it is in the morning or afternoon at home. The hour hand displays the destination time, which is convenient for the user to quickly adjust the main hour hand to synchronize with the local time without stopping the watch after arriving at the destination.

But this watch is reversed, the crown is pulled out to the first gear, the 24-hour hand is turned clockwise, the calendar is adjusted counterclockwise, and the second gear is to stop the seconds and adjust the time. If you use it backwards, you will not be able to see the main hour hand intuitively when you read the time locally, and you will not be able to quickly know whether it is morning or afternoon at home. Although this feature is not so easy to use, it is better than nothing after all. Let me finally conclude that Breitling’s mechanical chronograph has outstanding appearance, excellent texture, dexterous body, practical functions and stable performance. It is an excellent commuter travel replica watches price.

zelin0802 / November 21, 2022

Richard Mille presents a new gray cermet in the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT

Long ago, Richard Mille earned his place among companies introducing new avant-garde materials into watchmaking – from ceramic to forged carbon to quartz TPT and more. By using its new exclusive gray cermet material in the new RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT, the automotive and aerospace-influenced brand further underscores its status as a materials innovator.

Like Richard Mille’s ultracomplications, the RM 11-05 packs many functions into its 50mm x 42.7mm tonneau-shaped case, all driven by its skeletonized self-winding movement: flyback at 6 o’clock and Chronograph counter at 9 o’clock; GMT display with luminous hands, easily adjustable via push button (located on case at 9 o’clock); Annual calendar with semi-instantaneous large date at 12 o’clock, And the month is displayed in Arabic numerals on the scale at 5 o’clock. Operated by stylishly designed pushers between 1 and 2 o’clock and 4 and 5 o’clock, this chronograph also includes a countdown mode that uses a skeletonized disc with 60-minute markers instead of hands so the user can read The number of minutes elapsed and the number of minutes remaining.

The warm gray color of the cermet case comes from a mixture of metal zirconium and high-performance ceramic inserts, heated and pressed together to form a homogeneous whole, in particular excluding elements such as nickel and cobalt – usually used for such hard materials, But it is considered a “bad glue” for fake Richard Mille‘s partner, microtechnology company IMI Group, to comply with Europe’s REACH chemical safety standard. The gray cermet, which is less dense than titanium and has a hardness of 2,360 Vickers – almost equal to diamond’s 2,400 Vickers hardness – is the result of a process called “flash sintering,” which combines a series of powerful Pulse added to the classic hot stamping process. The substance is used in ballistics, aerospace airframe components and brakes on racing vehicles,

Richard Mille’s Caliber RMAC3 movement, visible behind a barrel-shaped sapphire window on the case back, features all the technological advancements the brand is known for, including a skeletonized baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium; variable geometry rotor, which allows the mainspring to be wound according to the user’s activity level; a 50-hour power reserve stored in twin barrels for longer-lasting performance; and titanium spline screws (also used to assemble the case) for more Good torque control.

Manufacturer: Richard Mille
Reference number: RM11-05
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph with flyback and countdown, annual calendar with incorrect date and month display, GMT
Movement: Caliber RMAC3, self-winding, skeletonized, baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium, wet-blasted and PVD treated, chamfered and hand-polished, polished pivots, diamond-polished sink, bevelled wheels, 68 jewels , 28,800 vph, 50-hour power reserve
Case: Carbon TPT case, grade 5 titanium caseback, gray cermet bezel; grade 5 titanium crown; anti-glare sapphire crystal, water resistant to 50 meters
Bracelet and Clasp: Rubber Strap
Dimensions: Diameter = 50mm x 42.7mm, Height = 16.15mm

It’s hard to believe that such a popular watch comes from a company that was almost founded in the days of Swiss watchmaking. Founded by French businessman Richard Mille in 1999, Richard Mille SA did not sell its first watch until 2001! How they manage to compete with the more established high-end Swiss brands that have been in business for over 100 years is a truly monumental feat.

RM11 design
The RM11 is a true heavyweight watch that looks impressive on the wrist. As Eric describes it, “This watch is a total bully.” As a result, anyone wearing this behemoth from Richard Mille is sure to be delighted with the intense, radiant “watch game” (which has to be Eric’s most One of my favorite buzzwords) stands out. Despite its impressive size, this Richard Mille timepiece is extremely comfortable thanks to its curved design. To quote Eric…

“It has a square Tonneau design that fits very comfortably on the wrist. You can see it has a curved back. Once it’s on the wrist, it feels like a glove.”
The RM 11 model is named after the Brazilian Formula 1 driver who was also a personal friend of the company founder. No wonder this chronograph was designed to look like a complicated F1 car. As Eric explained…

“They’ve had this slogan for years that says ‘racing machine on your wrist.'” copy watch