zelin0802 / August 17, 2022

HYT Watches Reopen With The Hastroid Green Nebula

The independent watchmaker specializing in fluid displays is back with a first best watch from Cerrato!

If you follow the independent watchmaking scene, you must know the difficulties HYT Watches, the UFO of the watchmaking world, has encountered in making watches with fluid indications. After about a year of dormancy, we can now say it loud and clear: HYT is back in action with a new partner (Kairos Technology Switzerland SA) and new CEO Davide Cerrato to support the business… this The name is sure to ring a bell. And today, the brand presents the first watch of its new era, the HYT Hastroid. We were able to spend some time on the Green Nebula Edition.

HYT – From Concept to Rebirth
Behind HYT is a concept, a vision to show time in an unprecedented and decidedly unnatural way. HYT swiss Watches, created in 2012, don’t use traditional hands that revolve around the dial, but a new fluid-based display… Liquid in watches (and magnetism, the worst enemy of mechanical movements)? Yep, that’s the whole idea. While it is true that in all HYT watches there is a rather (relatively) classic mechanical movement used as the driving force and adjustment for the indications, the display relies on an additional module consisting of bellows and capillaries, two of which are not mixed The dissolved fluid travels in a retrograde fashion to indicate the passage of time, and the point where the two fluids meet represents the current time.

Since developing the original concept in 2012, the brand has not only introduced watches with evolutions in movements and fluid mechanisms, but also made some improvements to address some important issues. The main reason is the expansion of the fluid due to temperature changes – keep in mind that the watch is either worn on the wrist or stored, creating temperature changes. To do this, the brand has added a thermal compensator inside one of the bellows.

Following the H1 model presentation, we saw the H2 watch, the rather insane H3 watch, and the slightly simplified H4 watch. A new direction was taken for 2017/18 with a refreshed design in the H0 model. Smoother and simpler. In 2019, the Haoyitong H5 introduced a new movement, again with some important mechanical updates to make the indications more precise and improve legibility. At the end of 2020, however, the brand had to face some difficulties, but since then there has been not only a new shareholder, but also a new CEO Davide Cerrato (ex-Tudor, ex-Montblanc). Since I’ve known this guy for years, I know he’d be a good fit. Passionate about any science fiction, Cerrato is sure to breathe fresh air into the HYT collection.

NEW HYT HASTROID GREEN NEBULA
This new watch, the Hastroid, marks the beginning of a new journey for HYT. It is built with a new design concept, a new inspiration and a new case. And, the overall inspiration goes back to the company’s roots, returning to edgy, modern, sharp shapes. HYT Hastroid is designed to resemble a spaceship. It’s big, bright and bold. After all, HYT’s insanely fluid display calls for this kind of boldness.

The case for the new HYT Hastroid, shown in its Green Nebula Edition, is all about architecture and science fiction inspiration. The case is angular, layered, and has a mix of materials. It’s also fairly airy, with a hollowed-out structure. However, this is a statement. It has a diameter of 48mm, a height of 17.90mm and an overall length of 58.30mm. Yes, the watch is big and bold on the wrist. Surprisingly, on Frank’s 18cm wrist (he’s the model for the photo), the watch looks much more comfortable and, dare I say, a little more compact than the numbers suggest.

HYT Hastroid completely redefines the overall design. No more pebble-shaped sapphire crystals. The new watch is more angular, almost square, but the skeletonized lugs add a certain airy feel to the case. The top surface is now flatter and indications are clearly visible. To make the watch slightly less “clunky”, Cerrato created a central container held by a square frame, with the sides of the watch opening to reveal different textures.

Our HYT Hastroid Green Nebula case is made from a combination of brushed, black-coated titanium and carbon fiber, making it less visually striking and lighter on the wrist. As a traditional feature, the crown is located at 2 o’clock and is protected by a module that runs along the side of the case. The multi-layered “sandwich” construction also allows for the clean integration of the rubber strap that connects between the two upper layers of the case – here rendered in green rubber, but also available with green Alcantara inserts black rubber.

The watch face of the Hastroid of Oytime has also received attention. The design has also been redefined here, with the return of the skeletonized textured structure that reveals most of the watch’s mechanical elements. The main plate is hollowed out and covered with a sapphire plate; therefore, both the mechanical part (top) and the fluid part (bellows in the lower part and capillaries around the dial) are fully visible. The movement consists of a black-coated plate with a grid pattern, which is decorated with bold Arabic numerals filled with bright green luminous material.

The main evolution of the HYT Hastroid compared to the brand’s previous watches is the display of the minutes. The pointer is now centered for maximum legibility. It is flanked by two classic indicators, the small seconds and the power reserve. Of course, the raison d’être of the HYT, the fluid indication of the hours, still exists around the dial and acts as a retrograde indication, jumping back to its initial position when the green fluid reaches the 6 o’clock position.

Fluid indication is still powered by the same ideas as before. Two bellows located in the lower part of the movement create a pressure movement on the fluid. The left bellows/piston module pushes the green fluid into the capillary, which over time pushes the clear fluid into the right bellows. The point where the two fluids meet, the two are immiscible, marks the current time. The system requires a highly waterproof mechanism – the entire fluid module is 10,000 times more airtight than a conventional dive watch (at least, according to the brand). The system is thus sealed. Thermal expansion can also be compensated by a clever device integrated into one of the bellows.

Powering our HYT Hastroid Green Nebula is the Calibre HYT 501-CM, a movement that should sound familiar to fans of the brand as it is based on the same technology that renowned watchmaker Eric Coudray developed for the H5 , and then an improved Hassted on launch. In addition to changing from off-centre minutes to central minutes, the movement’s decoration has also been updated, with black-coated bridges and bridges, as well as satin-finished and rhodium-plated moving parts.

The movement still consists of two separate modules connected by levers. On top is a mechanical engine with a frequency of 4Hz and a power reserve of 72 hours. This mechanical module has two functions. First, it stipulates the time to provide precise indications. Second, it is the driving force indicated by the fluid, giving it momentum and providing a constant displacement to act on the motion of the fluid. The connection to the fluid device is through an oversized lever, a curved tentacle spindle or “sensor” for the coordination of the mechanism, and a complex-shaped cam with 13 positions to precisely synchronize the hour and minute indications. This sensor converts the circular motion of the movement’s wheels into linear motion, which pushes the bellows and fluid.

Behind this new design, there is also a new strategy for the brand. Production will be more concentrated, fewer versions will be made, fewer models will be made, and the retailer network will be more condensed, strategies that may increase its desirability. https://www.review4uwatch.com

Technical Specifications – HYT HASTROID Green Nebula
Case: Diameter 48mm x H17.90mm – Length 58.30mm – Black Coated Titanium and Carbon Fiber Case – AR Coated Domed Sapphire Crystal – Sapphire Case Back – Black Titanium Screw Down Crown – 50m waterproof
Dial: Black Coated Brass and Sapphire Plate – 3D Black Coated Appliques and Green Luminous Numerals – Black Coated Titanium Grid – Green Liquid Inside Borosilicate Capillaries
Movement: Caliber HYT 501-CM – Proprietary Fluid Complication – Manual winding – 41 jewels – 28,800 vibrations/hour – 72 hours power reserve – Retrograde fluid hours, central minutes, small seconds, power reserve
Strap: Green or black rubber strap with green Alcantara insert – black coated titanium buckle
Reference: H02698-A

zelin0802 / August 16, 2022

Chopard LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial

The Chopard LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial Ref. 161242-0001 has a forest green dial with beautiful hand-guilloché decoration. The crown features a button that opens the hinged lid with a single push, revealing an extremely refined automatic movement. Unveiled at Watches & Wonders in 2022, this iconic watch of Haute Horlogerie once again showcases the Maison’s extraordinary expertise.

Chopard Manufacture – established in 1996

Last year, Chopard celebrated an important milestone in its history. In 1996, the family business opened Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. While the company had made watches before this, those were equipped with third-party movements. Becoming a manufacturer, producing in-house movements, is a big undertaking, and not without risks. To understand the rationale for the Fleurier website, one has to go back to the early 1990s.

Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele predicts an eventual renaissance in mechanical watchmaking. It must be remembered that some companies are still licking their wounds after the quartz crisis, a traumatic time that saw countless watch brands and their suppliers come to an end. Mr. Scheufele’s optimism seemed bold at least to some observers, and may even be misplaced by others, however, his prediction of a brighter sky proved to be right.

When the Chopard copy Manufacture opened in 1996, it employed only two employees. Some 25 years later, after investing tens of millions of Swiss francs, the watch factory has achieved great success and now has more than 170 employees in various positions. The first movement of the LUC 1.96 (now known as the LUC Calibre 96.01-L) was just the beginning. The Swiss brand continues to produce countless beautiful watch movements, some of which are highly complex. In fact, Chopard’s ambitions have never waned, and its ability to innovate is endless. For example, the Chopard LUC 8HF, released back in 2012, received COSC certification despite its balance running at an eye-watering 57,600 vph (8Hz).

In-house expertise

When visiting the site at Fleurier, one is struck by the multitude of processes taking place under one roof. This is a shining example of a “vertically integrated company.” In addition, the brand’s LUC models eventually feature movements so refined that they deserve the term “haute horlogerie”. Finishing is typical, all traces of machining have been removed. Finishing or “finishing” also enhances the corrosion resistance of movement components and imparts an aesthetic appeal that goes beyond mere function.

Some of the brand’s LUC movements are subject to independent scrutiny by COSC, Qualité Fleurier or Poinçon de Genève. Interestingly, in 2011 Chopard released the LUC triple certification, which, as the name suggests, meets the standards of all three certification bodies mentioned above.

In 2008, Chopard opened a separate factory in Fleurier to manufacture in-house movements for some Happy Sport and Alpine Eagle models. With its expertise in making cases and bracelets as well as crafting a variety of craftsmanship, the high-end brand’s talents are multi-faceted.

LUC Calibre 96.01-L (LUC 1.96) – excellent from the start

If a copy watch company were to produce its first in-house movement, one would expect it to produce a relatively simple hand-wound movement that only displays the hours and minutes. From the outset, however, the brand has displayed extraordinary ambitions, clearly intent on competing with the established brands of Haute Horlogerie.

Chopard’s first self-winding movement continues to be produced, although it is now known as the LUC Calibre 96.01-L. It uses a micro rotor instead of the usual full-size oscillating weight. Even today, only a few companies have the expertise to manufacture movements equipped with micro-rotors. In fact, generating enough inertia from a small rotating piece of dense metal (22K gold in this case) capable of powering the mainspring is no easy task. However, Chopard has clearly shown that it is up to the task. By the way, the LUC Calibre 96.01-L has two barrels and therefore two mainsprings, another property I will talk about later.

The micro-rotor is flush with the adjacent bridge, not above. This approach reduces the height of the movement (only 3.30 mm thick) and allows the wearer to indulge the superb view of the finely decorated movement.

While many watch movements feature a single barrel, this one features two stacked barrels. Taking this approach increases the power reserve, in this case about 65 hours. Furthermore, by using two barrels, the power transmitted through the gear train, which ultimately serves the escapement, is more consistent. While this should not be confused with a constant force device, as the energy inside the barrel becomes more and more depleted, the amplitude changes will be smaller. The end result is excellent rate stability.

Chopard also equipped the LUC 1.96 with a three-spoke balance wheel with a traditional hairspring and index adjuster. The latter component comes in the form of a highly polished gooseneck adjuster. The balance wheel is fitted with a sliding stud cap, giving the watchmaker a useful way to correct any rhythm errors.

The hairspring (also called hairspring) is equipped with a Philips terminal curve. This involves changing the curvature of the outer ring of the hairspring. The concept of the Philips terminal curve is similar to the Breguet Supercoil, which makes the breathing of the hairspring more concentric, thus providing excellent isochronism.

In keeping with Haute Horlogerie, the main plate is embellished with pearls, while the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève, engraved gilt text and glittering screws. One aspect of this movement that I find particularly flattering is Chopard’s decision to leave a gap between the bridges to provide a partial view of the gear train and barrel.

When Chopard released its ambitious LUC 1.96, it was scrutinized by COSC and Poinçon de Genève. Quite simply, with the release of this movement, the company has set very high standards.

Chopard LUC 1860

The first watch to feature the LUC 1.96 was the Chopard LUC 1860, released in 1997. With a diameter of 37 mm, this watch has a classic and understated style that was eventually carried over to several other LUC models.

The Chopard LUC 1860 features princess hour and minute hands, opposite the tapered hour markers. The central area of ​​the dial is beautifully decorated with a delicate wavy guilloche, and finally, a clear minute track wraps around the perimeter of the display. https://www.review4uwatch.com/

Chopard resists the temptation to dictate too many dials. In addition to the hours and minutes, small seconds and a date display are included. Clean, uncluttered and supremely elegant, this early Chopard LUC 1860 shows a clear intention to compete at the highest echelons of watchmaking.

In the years that followed, the luxury brand released further iterations of the Chopard LUC 1860, all of which retained the essence of the original.

Chopard LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial – Ref. 161242-0001

Earlier this year at Watches & Wonders 2022, Chopard introduced several new models, including the LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial Ref. 161242-0001. Featuring a stunning forest green dial and a 40mm 18K yellow gold case, this new model is powered by the highly regarded Calibre 96.01-L movement.

dial

When evaluating the 2022 watch, it was very similar to the 1997 model. However, this family similarity is more like father and son than gene cloning. The hour and minute hands are in the dauphine-fusée style, a derivative of the original dauphine style from 1997. This is not the first time Chopard has used dauphine-fusée style hands. In fact, they have been part of the brand’s design language for years.

The hours are indicated by conical facet markers, similar to the 1997 model, but using Arabic numerals to indicate midnight. The index at 6 o’clock is truncated to make room for the date display, which is presented with white numerals on a forest green disc. There is an overwhelming sense of integrity to this model. For example, Chopard could have saved a few Swiss francs to fit a white or black disc with a one-size-fits-all approach, however, as horological etiquette dictates, it indulges purists with a matching date disc.

The hand-guilloché process in the center of the dial showcases the brand’s exquisite craftsmanship. The dial is not adorned with studs of Paris or Ogre, but enriched with a honeycomb pattern, a specialty of the brand. Finally, a chemin de fer rounds out the display, bringing impressive clarity to the dial. copy Chopard Alpine Eagle Watch

case

As mentioned, Chopard has chosen 18K gold for the LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial. This infuses the watch with a slightly retro look that pairs perfectly with the rich green landscape that takes center stage.

Consistent with several other LUC references, the case is a perfect blend of highly polished and vertically satin-brushed surfaces. The latter finish softens the shimmering gold, deftly sidestepping any excesses.

There is a button labeled LUC on the vertical side of the crown. With a single press, the hinged cover on the rear of the watch opens to reveal the aforementioned movement. The inside of the cover is engraved with the honeycomb, the former brand logo and the words “Chopard Manufacture” and “LUC”. The outside of the lid is decorated with the brand’s honeycomb pattern, which is beautifully hand-guilloché.

Since opening Chopard Manufacture, the premium brand has deftly delivered innovation while respecting its loyal customers by adopting a consistent approach to design. If the Chopard LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial is placed next to the 1997 Chopard LUC 1860, it is clear that the two watches share a lot of the same genetic code. This approach is always evolutionary rather than revolutionary, which will no doubt resonate with many purists.

The styling of the new Chopard LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial is timeless. It doesn’t shout wealth like some nouveau riche watches. Rather, it’s the horological equivalent of a soft-spoken gentleman in a tailored slouchy suit, conducting his business in a dignified manner. Open the hinged lid and you’ll notice the brains of the watch, perfectly developed, hidden from view but beautifully executed. This watch knows how to express itself in any situation and has incredible intelligence. However, this is no surprise to me. After all, Chopard has demonstrated these qualities many times since the introduction of the LUC 1.96.

Technical Specifications

Model: Chopard LUC XPS 1860 Officer Green Dial
Reference: 161242-0001
Case: Ethical 18 karat yellow gold, diameter 40.0 mm, height 7.70 mm, sapphire crystal front and case back protected by crown-activated hinged lids
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds, date, stop seconds
Movement: LUC 96.01-L, self-winding, 28,800 vph (4Hz); 29 jewels, 65-hour power reserve, Observatory Certified (COSC), Seal of Geneva
Bracelet: Hand-stitched brown alligator leather strap, green alligator leather lining, 18-karat gold pin buckle

zelin0802 / August 5, 2022

Rolex OYSTER DEEPSEA

Speaking of this year’s new copy Rolex products, you must first think of the “left-handed” Greenwich II, which is vividly called “Sprite Circle” by watch friends because of its green and black outer ring. Highly recognizable, it is undoubtedly the blockbuster of the year. On the other hand, the new Airmaster with added crown guard bridge is also highly popular. It upgrades the movement and appearance to enhance its sports attributes and further moves closer to Rolex professional watches. In addition, the women’s log-shaped flower plate, the 18K gold yacht, and the platinum ice blue DD have all received a lot of exposure. However, among the new products, the presence of the new ghost king Ref.136660 is very low, not only the forum is rarely discussed by friends, but even the official did not write news materials for it. We also learned about its information from the quietly updated details page. It can be said that it is the most low-key new product of Rolex this year. Unlike Airmaster’s iterative product, which was upgraded from the 31-series movement to the 32-series movement, in fact, the Ghost King Ref.126660 released in 2018 has been equipped with the Cal.3235 movement. The 2022 Ghost King has not changed the movement model, and still uses the Cal.3235 movement. It is more based on the fine-tuning of the appearance. The following is a summary of the upgrade points of this new product based on the information released by foreign media.

From the front, the most significant upgrade of the new ghost king is the calendar window. It has a larger display area, allowing the wearer to read the date clearly. We know that Rolex uses a convex lens calendar display window for both the Submariner and the Sea-Dweller. This design originated from the Datejust type and has now become one of the iconic elements of Rolex. However, among many Rolex diving watches, only the ghost king did not add a convex lens calendar display window. The reason is that the convex lens calendar window is not integrally formed, but is bonded by two pieces of sapphire glass through a special process. The waterproof level of the Ghost King is 3900 meters, and the pressure during deep diving is several times that of an ordinary diving watch. Therefore, in order to ensure stability, the Ghost King upgrades the calendar window only to increase the display area, rather than using a convex lens window.

The second upgrade of Ref.136660 is the bezel. The ceramic outer ring of the new ghost king has become more slender, which can improve the exquisiteness of the watch to a certain extent. At the same time, the brand has also optimized the rotation mechanism of the outer ring, and the new product has a better rotating feel. The mirror is also one of the upgrade points. The sapphire mirror with reflective coating can effectively resist strong light refraction and make reading more clear.

The luminous effect has also been optimized. Early Rolex watches all used Super-LumiNova luminous, which is currently the most mainstream luminous material. However, Rolex, which was produced after 2008, stopped the use of Super-LumiNova and changed it to the brand-exclusive Chromalight luminous. Chromaligh has a longer glow time and a stable level of light. The 2022 Ghost King Ref.136660 adopts the latest generation of Chromaligh luminous solution, and its luminous duration and brightness are improved compared with the previous generation of Chromaligh luminous.

After reading the front, let’s talk about the changes of the bottom cover. In the old Ref.126660, the black “ROLEX OYSTER DEEPSEA ♕ SEA-DWELLER 12800 ft = 3900 m” is surrounded by the edge of the titanium case back to indicate the series to which the watch belongs and its water resistance. In the bottom cover of the new Ref.136660, this material has an exclusive name: “RLX titanium alloy”.

However, with regard to the new Ghost King Ref.136660, no real pictures have been seen at home and abroad, and more details about this product have yet to be confirmed. In fact, Ghost King has not been highly recognized among players for a long time, which is not only reflected in the product market share, but also directly reflected in the secondary market. It is true that the 44mm watch diameter and the case thickness of more than 17mm are not friendly to the general body of Asians, which means that the ghost king has not been as universal as a water ghost since its birth. It is a work prepared by a few watch friends, so it is reasonable for the brand to upgrade its low-key.

zelin0802 / August 1, 2022

Top 5 Subdials Watches For Men To Consider

Sometimes one of the most challenging things about collecting a watch is finding a watch that fits your wrist. While some people have big wrists that can handle watches of all sizes, the same cannot be said for everyone. Of course, not all of us have wrists like Arnold Schwarzenegger’s or Sylvester Stallone’s, who can easily strap on any Panerai of their choice and call it a day. So some of us need to be more careful about the watches we pick and how big their cases and dials are. So we wanted to explore 5 of the best watches men can choose from that are on the small side while offering everything a luxury watch should.

rolex explorer 36mm
To start our list is probably one of the most iconic field watches on the market, the Rolex Explorer. Originally a watch made for traversing mountains, the Explorer was built with a 36mm case from the start, based on its legibility requirements as a sports watch. In the early 1950s it was quite large at 36mm in diameter, but it didn’t get bigger until the 39mm ref. The 214670 was introduced in 2010 and was subsequently discontinued and replaced by the Explorer ref in 2021. 124670, which reintroduces the 36mm case to the Explorer family. Explorer ref. The 124670 is undoubtedly one of the best men’s subdials watches, and its integrity as a true luxury sports watch is impeccable.

Rolex Datejust 36mm
Another iconic timepiece for men to consider if they don’t want to wear a big watch is the Rolex Datejust in its original 36mm configuration. Originally introduced as a 36mm timepiece in 1945, it was also quite large at the time, so it remained unchanged until 2009. While the larger 41mm variant was introduced in 2009 as the Datejust II, the 36mm variant has never been discontinued and is therefore the most iconic and time-honored silhouette in watchmaking. Perfectly balanced after decades of production, the 36mm Rolex Datejust is one of the best watches on the market if they want a watch that is both iconic and equipped with the best Rolex has to offer Men, they can consider. Sporty when you need it, always classy and suitable for any occasion, the log can go anywhere and do anything.

Rolex Day-Date 36mm
Much like the Rolex Datejust 36mm, the Rolex Day-Date is another timepiece that entered production as a 36mm model and has been relatively unchanged since then. While 40mm and 41mm variants have come and gone, the 36mm variant is the most classic, traditional and steadfast, produced from Day-Date’s first reference, ref. 6510. Perfectly sized as the Datejust, the Day-Date is Rolex’s flagship timepiece, taking the Datejust’s classic aesthetic to make it more formal and unique. The Explorer takes the Datejust’s design and makes it sportier, while the Day-Date does the opposite, creating a watch fit for presidents, royalty and diplomats.

Tudor Black Bay 36mm
Leaving Rolex but staying in the family, we have one of the most popular timepieces on the market today, the Tudor Black Bay. Launched in 2012, Black Bay marked the re-emergence of Tudor in the diving watch world. Built to last, the Black Bay is a rugged and functional diver’s watch that blends stainless steel construction with a refined aesthetic in perfect harmony, flying under the radar or paired with a strap for a unique look Temperament and personality. Available in a variety of sizes, the 36mm model is an excellent choice for anyone looking to get away from the bulky timepieces we’ve seen time and time again.

Cartier Tank
From the Rolex Group, we explore Cartier, the famous French jeweler and watchmaker. While almost all of Cartier’s timepieces prefer smaller dial and case designs than most other watchmakers, almost all of them can be The Cartier Tank is the perfect watch for anyone who wants to wear a smaller dial. Available in a variety of sizes from less than 22mm wide to over 31mm wide, the tanks have everything. Iconic due to its unique rectangular profile, rich history and stunning looks, Tank could be perfect for the gentleman who wants a luxury watch that looks great in a smaller configuration timepiece. Thanks to its rectangular profile, the Tank looks incredible as a smaller watch and can easily be worn no matter the size of its owner’s wrist.

zelin0802 / July 22, 2022

Grand Seiko Eleance Collection Brings New Slim Case and New GS Movement

Big news from Japan today: the new Grand Seiko Elegance collection brings a new ultra-thin case, some very special dials, and most importantly, the new Grand Seiko Calibre 9S63 hand-wound mechanical movement. (However, Grand Seiko’s recent pricing anomaly appears to persist.) More on all of this below.

It’s really been a breath of fresh air to see Grand Seiko’s new collection – apparently, they couldn’t keep up their excitement ahead of BaselWorld either. Currently, the Grand Seiko Elegance collection includes four models: two in 18-karat rose gold (ref. SBGK002; red. SBGK004), one in 18-karat gold (ref. SBGK006) and one in stainless steel (ref. SBGK006). SBGK005 — Yay! ).

Eight years after the last hand-wound mechanical movement at Grand Seiko, all four Elegance Collection watches feature the same new 9S63 calibre, running at 4 Hz and offering a 72-hour power reserve. This appears to be the new baseline feature for all previous-generation movements introduced recently, which is a good thing. On the dial side, the movement displays the central hours and minutes, the seconds hand at 9 o’clock and the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. Gone are the offset power reserves we see on Spring Drive Grand Seikos, like my beloved SBGC001 Spring Drive Chronograph, review it here.

Grand Seiko says the 9S63’s accuracy is between -3 and +5 seconds per day, and if there’s anything to be commended about all the major Japanese brands, it’s their honest and down-to-earth accuracy claims – unlike the Swiss (or even A more optimistic statement often heard by some German) manufacturers. Although Grand Seiko sometimes tends to distinguish between gold and steel models of movement, in this case (pun intended) all four models will feature the Grand Seiko 9S63 movement with hot blue screws – apparently, this is Grand Seiko’s first. Very cute, if you ask me.

If tempered screws are sweet, the dials are stunning: both 18ct rose gold versions (references SBGK002 and SBGK004) feature Urushi dials. These traditional Japanese lacquered dials are produced in the Shizukuishi Watch Studio, where all mechanical watches are made, using sap from trees that grow around the small town north of the studio. The translucent brown and dark black Urushi dial complements the taka-maki-e tiered markers and “GS” lettering. Maki-e literally means “sprinkled picture”, while taka-maki-e is a “raised” or layered variant.

This technique was developed during the Muromachi period (1336-1573) and meant that the desired pattern was made of countless layers of material built on the base lacquered dial. For the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection Urushi dial, multiple layers of pure gold or platinum powder are sprinkled on the dial one layer at a time (guess what?) this is a “time consuming process”. It reminds me of the PVD-coated platinum numerals in the ceramic bezels of select Rolex watches – while Rolex’s solution is cutting-edge high-tech, Grand Seiko’s approach is heart-warmingly traditional.

The hands – if you’ve never had a chance to hold a Grand Seiko before – eat your warm heart – are beautiful, at least in the official pictures, and look beautiful with every dial variation. As cool as the Urushi dial might be, I’m still curiously drawn to the 18ct yellow gold version and the plain Jane white dial – a nod to the unmistakable and unmistakable Japanese design of the Elegance Collection, which seems to me, at least to me, in this gold The most prominent of the variants.

In this regard, I’m very grateful for how Grand Seiko has incorporated elements of its much-loved case design into this new 39mm wide and 11.6mm thick “Mechanical Skirt Collection” watch – because yes, this is the Grand Seiko is referring to this new timepiece collection. The sturdy, curved lugs feature wide upper surfaces, but are cut short to keep the case away from the upper and lower edges of the wrist—a must for any decent dress fake watch. The lugs seem to be fairly narrow in width, but I think they pull it off somehow, which is just right quirky and doesn’t look weird or petite. I’d take the risk of eyeing it at 18mm; the GS doesn’t currently offer such a spec, but the lug width does look narrow, and we’ll have to see these in action to better determine how the Elegance Collection will actually fit.

Closed – or open, depending on how you want to look at it – this new Elegance collection of four watches is a stainless steel variant (reference SBGK005) with the exact same case shape and size as the gold version, but with a blue textured dial. Texture GS is called “Mt. Iwate” pattern; the watch studio is located in Morioka city in northeastern Iwate prefecture. Exactly how this crease texture ties into Iwate I’m not sure, but it’s a recurring theme in select Grand Seiko models.

The pricing structure of the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection turned things upside down. As one might expect, the two rose gold variants with Urushi dials will command a premium over the gold versions with regular lacquered dials and no taka-maki-e indexes and GS designation. Fans of Seiko and Grand Seiko may remember the Presage Automatic we covered here, where €2,500 buys you a multi-coloured Urushi dial and a whole watch with case, movement, strap, and more.

To me at least, the gold one in rose gold very incomprehensible – another nail in the coffin of the late Grand Seiko’s sensible pricing strategy. Rose gold may have some premium over gold, but four times the cost of an entire copy watch with a similar dial makes no sense. I’ll admit, other than Grand Seiko’s greedy random price generator software working hard again, I’ve yet to understand how this crazy premium is justified.

zelin0802 / July 5, 2022

Rolex

Rolex latest news

While busy with full production, Rolex cheap is still creating new models and making changes internally

All four Rolex manufacturing plants are running at full speed, from Biel to Geneva and its suburbs. Although they were bulky and well-equipped, they were nowhere near the insatiable demand for watches. This undoubtedly keeps them very busy. But they still have room for novelty and change.

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The most explicit is also the most discrete. According to sources in Geneva, Mr. Bertrand Gross resigned a few days ago. Beginning in 2007, the attorney has been president of most of the board of directors of the group companies that collectively represent what we commonly call Rolex. He has left a deep imprint on the Group’s policies and strategies, most importantly the appointment of Mr. Jean-Frédéric Dufour as CEO in 2015. Cheap watches for Men

His successor is Nicolas Brünschwig, head of the Bongénie Swiss retail chain. He is already a member of the board of directors of the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, the sole shareholder of Rolex, and the Biel Manufacture. His appointment confirms the fundamental connection between the leaders of the world watch industry and Geneva, its institutions and especially its business elite.

But the news means little to viewing enthusiasts. They’d rather know what they can wear on their wrist. During its first appearance at Watches & Wonders, Rolex introduced a series of high-profile novelties. So we’re not going to expand on the GMT Master II ref 126720 VTNR, whose black and green bezel and left crown have become a big deal. We’d rather mention its twin sister, who wears a Jubilee bracelet. That one was not used for trial during the Geneva demo, but was just displayed in a protected display window around their booth. That’s why we offer two versions side by side.

Another striking piece is also locked in these windows: Rolex is bringing back the day-date type with a stone dial. This is the rebirth of those fantastic gold pieces with presidential bracelets and onyx dials. Only this time, they found another type of onyx, more textured and less uniform in black, called lined onyx. On the wrist, it’s understated glam with subtle shades and depths that create a rare elegance: one that fits only the wearer’s eyes.

Another timepiece with this effect: a new and understated variant of the Yacht Master 42. From a distance, it looks no different from the original model introduced in 2019. On closer inspection, the dial is not black lacquered, but made of falcon eyes. This black mineral has magnificent subtle grey and blue highlights and barely visible veins.

This model is better known and in greater demand, driving buyers crazy. It is easily recognisable as it is one of the few precious pieces to wear an ice blue dial. Platinum Day-Date 40, especially the new ref. 228236, very hot. Its markup is the highest of any speculative watch, which speaks volumes about the appeal of this piece. It has an all-new fluted platinum bezel, and so far the brand has not managed to make something satisfactory. It adds a layer of embellishment to this vivid, bright, shiny, light (albeit heavy) timepiece.

zelin0802 / July 4, 2022

Hublot – Big Bang Unico Essential Grey

Hublot presents Big Bang Unico Essential Grey, limited, exclusively on the Swiss brand’s e-commerce platform.

The new Big Bang Unico Essential Grey puts the emphasis on the design of this iconic model thanks to its perfect monochrome and satin finish.

The 42mm x 14.5mm case, with its satin finish extending to the bezel, hands and dial, is made of titanium, a very light material that makes the watch particularly comfortable to wear.

The skeletonized dial displays the gears, chronograph column wheel and date disc. The 60-minute counter at 3 o’clock complements the skeletonized subdial at 9 o’clock.Hublot replica

The large hands and hour markers are filled with Super-LumiNova luminous material for improved readability in low light or underwater (the watch is water resistant up to 10 bar, approximately 100 meters/330 feet).

Through the transparent sapphire crystal case back secured by six screws, the HUB1280 self-winding movement can be seen beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) with a power reserve of 72 hours.

The Best cheap watches comes with two straps: one in grey fabric with Velcro fastening and the other in black and grey lined rubber with a satin titanium buckle. Both are easily interchangeable thanks to Hublot’s patented one-touch system.

zelin0802 / June 20, 2022

Zenith “El Primero 50th Anniversary” Anniversary Set

Your own cheap Zenith El Primero museum – with room to grow.

1969 was largely a watershed year in watchmaking. The year marked the beginning of what was almost over – the first commercial quartz watch, the Seiko Astron, debuted in Tokyo on Christmas Day. As it happens, something else debuted that year, and its fortunes would be profoundly affected by that launch. Zenith El Primero is the world’s first full-rotor automatic high-frequency chronograph, and one of three self-winding chronograph movements launched that year, along with Seiko’s own 6139 movement, and Breitling/ Tag Heuer/Bren Collaboration, calibre 11. Of the three movements, only one is still in production, and it’s still in production after 50 years, Zenith celebrates its debut with a 50th Anniversary Collection, which includes three different El Primero timepieces , these timepieces were particularly important in the development of the movement – and a few extras.

El Primero’s history is a bit peculiar in the 1970s—in 1971, the Zenith cheap Watch Company was sold to the Chicago Zenith Radio Company, which decided the future was quartz (a not unreasonable assumption at the time). Zenith Chicago decided in 1975 to shut down El Primero production, and all the tools, components, and pretty much everything else in the building should be sold or thrown away. The rest is history, and watchmaking legends – builder Charles Vermot, a Zenith employee who had the vision (or stubbornness, or both) to fight the boss and put El Primero’s Tools and plans are hidden in the factory attic. Gradually, people became interested in it – first from Ebel and then, most crucially, from Rolex,

In the intervening decades, El Primero made its way into more and more Zenith watches, and at the same time, it underwent a technological evolution. Two of the most important advancements increased the resolution of the chronograph. The 36,000 vph chronograph was a major technical achievement in 1969, and in 2010 the El Primero Striking 10th took the next step. While the Striking 10th has the same frequency as the original El Primero, it has a new chronograph gear train that supports a central hand that rotates every 10 seconds, a 30-minute counter and a 60-second counter at 6 o’clock Three o’clock – allows direct reading of 1/10 second intervals. In 2017, the cheap Zenith Defy 21 was introduced with two independent balance wheels, one vibrating at 36,000 vph and the other 360,000 vph, allowing it to be timed with a resolution of 1/100th of a second. Original El Primero reference. The 1969 A386 has been fully reproduced in the 50th anniversary series trilogy, while the Striking 10th appears in Chronomaster 2 El Primero, and the Zenith El Primero Defy 21 is even more perfect.

The set comes in a display box and, interestingly, there’s a place for an extra watch. In addition to the original, El Primero already exists in 1/10th and 1/100th versions, with empty slots marked “1/1000th of a second” – the idea is for the future, when the 1/1000th of a second El Primero production model becomes In reality, those who own the 50th anniversary set will have the option to buy it and complete the collection. (There is no possibility that there will be a mechanical chronograph with 1/10,000th of a second).

The A386 version is an extremely faithful reproduction of the 1969 original. According to Zenith, they actually even laser scanned the original model to ensure the reissue was as high-fidelity as possible. One major difference between the replica and the original is the use of a sapphire crystal on the new model (the caseback is also sapphire, while the original A386 had a solid caseback). The movement is the latest production version of the original calibre 3019 PHC, the calibre El Primero 400 – for all the relatively subtle modern updates and technical improvements, it’s still an A386 for anyone looking for the best of both retro and A modern classic El Primero design that will please a lot, including the 38mm case diameter.

Powered by Caliber 3600, the Chronomaster 21 El Primero is very different in style from the original Striking Tenths watch (reviewed by HODINKEE founder Ben Clymer when it was officially unveiled in July 2011). The most notable update is the addition of a ceramic bezel, which makes it easier to read elapsed time from 1/10 of the central seconds hand (as well as providing an additional measure of scratch resistance). It’s still fairly classic and has a fairly strong visual connection to the A386, albeit with a slightly larger 42mm case, thanks to the iconic tri-colour overlapping sub-dials. review4uwatch.com

Defy El Primero 21 is stylistically the most significantly different member of the series from the original. The open dial is controversial among El Primero retro fans, but this model does retain the original tri-color sub-dial. If you have any doubts about the version of El Primero you’re looking at, when you start the chronograph, they disappear instantly – the second hand makes one revolution per second, which is a breathtaking thing. It’s the largest of the three at 44mm in diameter, but the titanium case makes things lighter on the wrist, and as a technological powerhouse, it’s the undisputed front runner of the collection.

This includes, I should mention, a few things other than the collection itself – a visit to the Zenith Manufacture to see the El Primero movements and watches being made. The set includes a mold for the El Primero 400 chronograph coupling wheels, if you are one of the owners, you can use your mold to make a pair of these wheels when you are at the factory; your name will be Engraved in it, and part of the exhibition at the entrance to the attic, Charles Vermot hides El Primero from decades ago.

Of course, this set seems to be aimed squarely at relatively wealthy El Primero enthusiasts, but in its own right it is also an interesting museum showing the evolution of high-frequency chronographs in general, and the El Primero in particular. Adding to the customer experience when buying a special or limited edition is something we’re likely to see more of as high-end watch brands seek to further differentiate themselves from one another. All manifestations of the El Primero are unique in the history of watchmaking – if you are a cheap men watch nut with a card, you should probably experience it for yourself and appreciate its unique place in the history of watchmaking, not to mention it Miraculously survived the singularity of the Quartz Crisis.

zelin0802 / June 18, 2022

Panerai Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo Ref. PAM01269

Launched the last phase of the long-term identity change of the Italian original brand, the Luminor Goldtech model with perpetual calendar. Collectors will own one of the 33 watches, and they will also have the opportunity to attend special events that will take place in Florence and Tuscany.

Reference PAM01269 features a 44mm diameter 18K Goldtech gold case with a polished finish. This patented Goldtech alloy has a unique color and durability due to the platinum content in the material. The case is equipped with sapphire crystals on both sides and is water-resistant to 50 meters. The crown protector, a signature detail of the Luminor model, is made of brushed gold.

Powered by the in-house Calibre P.4100 movement, this model is equipped with one of the most unique complications in luxury watchmaking: the perpetual calendar. The 6.9mm thick movement has 55 jewels, beats at 4Hz (28.800vph) and offers a power reserve of 3 days (up to 72 hours) when fully wound. Powered by a double barrel system, the movement has a special function that stops and resets the seconds hand when the crown is pulled for precise time adjustment.

In the center of the dial, there is a second time zone indicator along with hour and minute hands. Unlike the traditional GMT display, the blue hand on the indicator rotates twice a day. An indicator at 9 o’clock shows the second time zone via a 24-hour scale. The display also has a small second hand. Day and date display at 3 o’clock. best made replica watches

When we turn the case back, a rather complicated scene comes into view. The movement is wound by a solid 22K gold micro-rotor and includes the month, leap year, year and remaining power reserve indications on the back.

The new model comes with a black alligator leather strap and a trapezoidal clasp of the same material as the case. The lug width is 24mm. This model is limited to 33 units. The lucky owners of these watches will have the opportunity to take part in one of the most extraordinary tours in Italy and receive NFTs prepared by famous artists. This NFT will also be the key to accessing a range of experiences that will continue after the trip. best replica watch brands

zelin0802 / June 13, 2022

All new Hublot and Marvel models for 2022

A watch with a new look, lots of colourful cases and facets… quintessential Hublot.

Hublot launched four major new products during its first participation in the Geneva Watch Wonder. First, the Big Bang Integral Ceramic comes in four new colours, while the Big Bang Tourbillon appears in a striking purple sapphire crystal case. There were also new Orlinski models, with faceted bracelets reflecting the artist’s style, and last but not least, a freshly shaped watch called the Square Bang burst on the scene. We have listed them here!

Hublot BIG BANG Monolithic Ceramics
Hublot is constantly releasing new versions of its successful Integral model, the Big Bang’s integrated bracelet. Four new monochromatic colorways have been introduced: Blue Indigo, Sky Blue, Sand Beige and Jungle Green. This 42mm watch is powered by the latest version of the Unico movement, the brand’s dial-side column-wheel automatic chronograph.

42mm x 13.45mm – Ceramic case – Water-resistant to 100 meters – Automatic movement HUB1280 Unico, 4Hz, 72-hour power reserve – Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, date – Ceramic bracelet with titanium deployment clasp

Hublot BIG BANG TOURBILLON Automatic Purple Sapphire
This new edition of the Big Bang Automatic Tourbillon Sapphire watch stands out for its distinctive purple color. According to the brand, this new purple shade is a composite of Al₂O₃ (aluminum oxide) and chrome. The watch is powered by the HUB6035 movement, a skeleton tourbillon with a micro-rotor. The transparent purple rubber strap comes with a patented one-touch interchange system.

44mm x 14.5mm – Polished purple sapphire case – Water resistant to 30 meters – Automatic movement HUB6035, 3Hz, 72-hour power reserve – Hours, minutes and tourbillon – Purple rubber strap and titanium folding clasp

Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinsky Bracelet
Since 2017, Hublot has been releasing Richard Orlinski editions, which showcase the angular style typical of the French artist’s work. The four new models launched on the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2022 feature a new faceted one-piece metal bracelet that showcases the iconic design. The watch has a diameter of 40mm and is made of titanium. Inside is the automatic movement HUB1100 (based on the Sellita SW300).

40mm x 11.1mm – Polished Titanium Case – Water Resistant to 50m – Automatic Movement HUB1100, 4Hz, 42-Hour Power Reserve – Hours, Minutes and Seconds – Faceted Titanium Bracelet and Folding Clasp

Hublot SQUARE BANG UNICO
As the name suggests, Square Bang Unico offers an alien square version of the Hublot Big Bang. The new timepieces are available in five 42mm models. The first three materials are pure titanium, black ceramic or king gold. The last two mix titanium or king gold with a black ceramic bezel. Under the hood is the internal HUB1280 Unico automatic chronograph. Each watch is equipped with a black rubber strap and a folding clasp in the same material as the case.

42mm x 14.5mm – Ceramic, Titanium/Ceramic, Titanium, King Gold/Ceramic or King Gold Case – Water Resistant to 100m – HUB1280 Unico Self-Winding Caliber, 4Hz, 72 Hours Power Reserve – Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds , chronograph, date – rubber strap and folding clasp – all black.