zelin0802 / December 6, 2022

“Salmon” and steel.

While most of the buzz surrounding Patek Philippe’s recent releases has centered around the Nautilus ref. 5811/1G white gold, vintages aside from the Nautilus and Aquanaut are mostly about. One of the most striking new additions for 2022 is the World Time Flyback Chronograph ref. 5935A-001.

Continuing Patek Philippe’s steel watch developments beyond its traditional sports models, ref. 5935A is a fresh take on a model that debuted in 2016. Previously only precious metals (i.e. white gold or platinum) were offered, ref. The 5935A is the first stainless steel model and one of the brand’s few complex metal models. and referee. The 5935A is larger in diameter than its predecessor, but its most striking feature is the “rose gold-plated opal” (or “salmon”, if you prefer) dial.

The World Time in steel is significant because the World Time is arguably Patek Philippe’s signature watch. A selection of vintage models is one of the few reference models from Patek Philippe that can sell for seven or even eight figures.

awarded to the referee. 5935A adds a chronograph, but it still has the modern style of the iconic complication. referee. 5935A retains the familiar Louis Cottier-type world time display that is almost synonymous with Patek Philippe, but in modern materials and colors. The 41mm diameter is also larger than the usual size for Patek Philippe complications, giving it a sporty feel.

Naturally, for many, the dial is probably the biggest selling point of this watch. The pink hue, often called “salmon” or copper, is a trendy color at the moment—I’m a huge fan of the shade myself—and it’s perfect for this particular style.

For one thing, this color is usually only found in platinum watches or special editions. But lately Patek Philippe has been introducing the color to a wider range of models, including the ref. 5320G and ref. 5172 grams. Adding pops of color to these models is a shrewd way to increase their visibility and popularity, perhaps diverting attention away from the Nautilus and Aquanaut.

referee. Larger, lighter and louder than the average Patek complication watch, the 5935A is a compelling alternative for anyone who prefers world time or more general complications but wants a more casual and modern aesthetic .

Part of that is due to the steel case, ref. The 5935A is an entry model, at least by the benchmark of Patek Philippe complication watches. At just over $63,000, it’s not much of a value proposition—it’s rarely used to describe Patek Philippe anyway—but it’s one of the most affordable complications in the catalog, and one of the most interesting.

Stainless steel
If you are a watch lover who is familiar with cheap Patek Philippe, then you will know that complex watches with stainless steel cases are often very special. For example, the most expensive Patek Philippe ever made is stainless steel. Leaving aside the Nautilus and Aquanaut collections, Patek Philippe only has two steel complications, the ref. 5905/1A and this ref. 5935A.

Besides being rare, steel is a strong material and arguably more versatile from a visual standpoint, as it can be both casual and formal. Although larger than its predecessor, the ref. The 5935A is lighter due to the case material.

Despite being larger — it’s 41mm, compared to 39.5mm for the Platinum model — it doesn’t look or feel significantly larger. However, it stands out on the wrist thanks to the dial color, which also gives it the feel of a sporty everyday watch (though not exactly a sports watch).

Other than that, the case is the same as its precious metal counterpart. It’s fully polished and has the same “winglet” style lugs inspired by vintage refs. 2523 world time. The pushers on the case are the same: chronograph pushers at two and four o’clock, and a world time pusher at 10 o’clock.

While the case is of excellent quality, the finish is uniform. More variation in the case finish would make it more attractive, not least because the shape of the lugs lends itself to alternating surface finishes. This will also better differentiate it from the precious metal version.

About the case, the only thing I would definitely change is the strap, which feels lackluster relative to the look of the watch (and its price). The copy watch comes with a pair of straps in the same color, one in grained calfskin and the other in nubuck, but both feel a bit too thin for the case.

“Rose Gold Plated Opal…Carbon.”
Without a doubt, the highlight of the references. 5935A is the dial. Described by Patek Philippe as a “rose gold-plated opal,” the dial is decorated with a “carbon” pattern that first appeared on Calatrava ref. 6007A made to commemorate the inauguration of the brand’s new headquarters in Geneva. It’s this prominent pattern that gives the watch a casual vibe that complements the stainless steel case.

While Patek Philippe did not specify the nature of the motif, it appears to be stamped and extremely precise. Traditional, engraved guilloché would have been a bonus, but Patek Philippe only offers it in its top complications or rare handcrafts, all with watches priced in the six figures. The watch retails for just over $63,000, which makes it an approachable complication by Patek Philippe standards.

Notably, the central portion of the guilloché appears to be the same size as on the smaller reference. 5930P. Instead, the world time ring is larger to accommodate the enlarged case. Reference ratio. The 5935A is arguably better than its smaller cousin, as the urban disc feels cramped.

But the downside of keeping the central part the same size is the 30-minute register at 6 o’clock, which is still quite small. It’s sharp enough, but feels unnaturally small.

The rest of the dial is typical Patek Philippe, which is to say quite refined and detailed. The applied hour markers are solid gold but plated with a dark gray finish, as are the hands, while the brand name is on a plaque inserted into the dial just below 12 o’clock.

double complication
referee. The 5935A is a world time flyback chronograph, a novel but complementary combination of complications powered by the CH 28-520 HU that debuted in 2016 alongside ref.5935A. 5930G. Despite the unusual complication, the movement features signature Patek Philippe mechanical elements, namely the Gyromax balance wheel and the Spiromax hairspring in silicon.

The movement is made up of 343 individual parts – roughly double that of a normal chronograph – including the column wheel and the chronograph’s vertical clutch, while the world time mechanism is an additional module below the dial. By Patek Philippe standards, it is relatively compact and slim considering its functionality, measuring 34.5mm in diameter and 7.97mm in height.

In terms of trim, the CH 28-520 HU lives up to what you would expect from a current Patek Philippe. Its decoration is clean and thorough, though mostly by machine, with a few hand touches here and there – industrial haute horology, in other words.

Importantly, the decoration of the movement has improved significantly over time, reflecting the brand’s substantial progress in aesthetic sophistication. For example, the bevels of the bridges and counterbores are now mirror-polished and no longer have the milling marks visible on the ten-year-old caliber examples.

After spending some time with the referee. 5935A, it’s easy to see why this is one of the stars of the 2022 collection. For starters, it combines a pair of useful complications in a steel case — the material alone will appeal to some enthusiasts — and it looks good, too.

referee. The 5935A is undoubtedly an expensive watch by almost all benchmarks, but by Patek Philippe standards it is acceptable. Admittedly, availability will be zero in the short term, as with any new Patek Philippe model, but it will become more readily available in the near future, and as always, this will be a reference. The 5935A is a compelling proposition.

Patek Philippe World Time Flyback Chronograph
Ref. 5935A-001

Diameter: 41mm
Height: 12.75 mm
Material: stainless steel watch
Mirror: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 meters

Movement: Cal. CH 28-520 HU
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, flyback chronograph and world time
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Chain: Automatic
Power Reserve: 50-55 hours

Strap: Calfskin with folding buckle, additional nubuck calfskin strap